My dryer was not heating so I replaced the thermastat and heat control and it still won't heat up. My igniter works and just keeps trying to ignite.
ANSWER Hello Shawn,
The best way to insure that the ignitor 134393700, (which can look good and still be bad), is with a clamp on amp-meter, TJCL1100. You see, when the ignitor draws from 3.2 to 3.6 amps of current, the magnetic field built up by the coils gets strong enough to open the gas valve. The ignitor can turn red all day long and never open the gas valve. One indication is if the ignitor is turning red and sometimes orange, this isn't drawing enough current to open the gas valve. If the ignitor is turning bright orange or almost white hot, the gas valve will normally open. Testing the ignitor doesn't mean that the thermostat is good, but if voltage is being supplied to the ignitor, the thermostat is clear of suspicion. It can still be out of calibration and responsible for not maintaining proper temperatures, but if it passes voltage, it is not the cause of the no heat situation in the bake compartment. If the ignitor passes the amperage draw test, the other two things that can cause an ignition issue is the safety valve 5303207409 and the burners 134197700 themselves, unless a coil on the safety valve has failed 5303931775.
There is one visual indication of a failed ignitor. The grey ceramic part of the ignitor will get a white spot on it. This white spot is where the ignitor has gotten hotter and has exceeded the resistance tolerable for an operational part.
Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Tuesday, October 02, 2012