My fridge works fine for four or five days, then it stops circulating the air. ice trays on the bottom of the freezer are still ice, but ice trays on the top shelves are water. The fridge side gets fairly warm. the kicker.... I give the side of my fridge one solid thump and it kicks on and works fine for another four or five days. I dont know if its the condenser fan or something that controls it that likes to be thumped.
ANSWER Hi Kyle. When the unit runs, look at the freezer and see if the evaporator fan motor is running with the compressor always. Also, make sure the condenser fan motor is running as well at the same time. Is the center divider wall in between the freezer and fresh food door too warm to touch? If it is too hot, then you need to remove the back and use a condenser cleaning brush part # TJ103 along with a shop vac to clean the condenser coils. This will lead to a no-cool, and also back up and overheat the freon inside the compressor. The compressor should be almost too warm to touch but not hot enough to fry an egg on it. The condenser fan motor is part # 5304448483 if needed. Clean the cond. Fan blade completely. Are the interior lights on? Your unit has 3-controls. 2 manual and one electronic defrost control board. While it is running, do you see a frost build up inside the lower back wall of the freezer ? If so then you have a defrost issue. Consider the defrost thermostat part # 5303918214 and the defrost control board part # 5303918476. The defrost control board is behind the upper rear lt corner area . Do you have to lightly tap it there to activate a relay to contact again ? But as you say the usual given thump tells me that it is more of an issue of the manual control not making the commanded run time. Use a volt/ohm meter part #@ TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. Use the meter to test with the ohm scale if the freezer thermostat part # 5304421067 or the fresh food thermostat part # 241586503 has failed. You can rotate the controls from low,medium and high contacts to see where the open is at inside the switch. The resistance should read 0-ohms in all settings. You should normally feel a "detent - step" as the capillary tube senses the surrounding air and will show as a open at this detent. If there is a open or no meter reading then the switch being tested is bad. This is a tricky one because you have to take it one step at a time. Do you hear a loud audible click every 30 seconds or better coming from the back of the units compressor relay part # 297237702? Do you have a loose wire at the controls , door switch or the compressor relay ? If you remove the compressor relay, it should read 5-6 ohms cold. If it rattles then change it. Let me know how to help further. Thank You.
Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Monday, May 14, 2012