It started when both the freezer side and the frige side were found to be not cold. It was then found that behind the wall of the freezer was a solid mass of frost/ice. Manually defrosted by blowing warn air at it. Plug back and the refrigerator worked good for a week then had to repeat the same process.
Then found the defrost heater had no continuity. The defrost thermostat had no continuity whether at room temperature or be in icy water for minutes.
Ordered for both to replace, and now the thermostat arrived. But it has continuity even at room temperature. Is that normal?
My understanding is: when the coils are cold, the thermostat closes the circuit (that's why the thermostat needs to be put in icy cold water when testing continuity), causing heater to be on to defrost. When the coils are completely defrosted, even the thermostat at the top senses the warm temperature, therefore it opens the circuit and heater is turned off.
I am therefore doubtful to see the new thermostat showing 0 resistance on a multimeter at room temperature around 76 degrees.
Is my understanding correct?
The new thermostat is in a plastic bag with GE logo. The model number "WR50X10068" is printed on the plastic bag, but not on the metal of the thermostat itself. Instead, the print on the metal are:
T-0-0 37TV31 31659 L140-30F
Should I use the new thermostat?
ANSWER Hello Jason,
This is a defrost issue. On this design unit, the most common failure is the defrost heater (AP3183311) burning out.
Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Friday, June 28, 2013