I was wandering if the bearing in my washer was gone. At the back where the motor and belt is and the wheel the belt fits on there is a loud noise coming from the bearings inside there. It is so loud, sounds like someone with a jackhammer inside the back where that bearing is. And when I open the door smoke comes out , so much my smoke alarm came on the other day. Also inside the door where the metal tub goes around the fiberglass front tub, the front fiberglass tub has been rubbed up against with the metal tub and has like splinter pieces all in there where it has rubbed. Thats where the smoke is coming from the rubbing. So I guess I would need the whole rear tub since the bearing doesn't come out. I mean I don't see why it wouldn't come out, there is a slip ring that holds the bearing in there.Sounds like to me General Electric has this problem alot with there washers.The washer only makes this smoke and sound when it spins on high speed. My question is how hard is it to remove the rear tub? And if I order the rear tub will the weights on the tub come with the new tub or do I have to remove the weight off the old tub and put it on the new tub? I don't know if I would need the front tub too since it has rubbed. My rubber gasket around the door is still good. I just replaced it. Let me know about what you think. Thanks alot.
ANSWER Hello Brenda. You will need to replace the rear tub WH45X10071 and the front tub cover WH45X10101 based on the information you provided. As for doing the repair, here are some instructions for you. Outer Tub Assembly and Suspension The outer tub assembly is constructed in two halves and contains the wash basket. The bearing and seal assembly is part of the outer tub rear half. The outer tub assembly is supported by 2 suspension springs and 4 dampers. Each spring is located between the top of the tub assembly and a cabinet top brace, one on each side. Washer stabilization is achieved by the use of 4 dampers that are located between the bottom of the tub assembly and chassis, 2 per side. To remove the outer tub assembly: WARNING: The outer tub assembly is heavy and requires two people to remove it from the washer cabinet. Care should be taken when removing and installing the outer tub assembly. Drain the washer using the pump cleanout. Remove the top, control, service, and front panels. Remove the dispenser. Remove the nozzle hose from the 3-way pipe: Note: The nozzle hose is difficult to remove. a. Squeeze the clamp and slide it back. b. Carefully break the nozzle hose loose by inserting a small fl at-blade screwdriver under the hose to break the seal. c. Remove the hose. 5. Set the front bracket aside. Remove the tub vent hose from the left rear of the outer tub: Note: The tub vent hose is diffi cult to remove. a. Squeeze the clamp and slide it back. b. Carefully break the tub vent hose loose by inserting a small fl at-blade screwdriver under the hose to break the seal. c. Remove the hose. Remove the air pipe from the water level control. Disconnect the heater assembly wires. Remove the plastic wire tie that holds the heater assembly wiring and the tub ground wire to the outer tub. Disconnect the motor wire harness, ground wire, and the plastic wire tie that holds the wiring to the motor. Remove the tub drain hose from the pump. Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws from the cabinet rear cover. Pull the cover outward from the middle. Remove the Phillips-head screw that holds the tub ground wire. Remove the ground wire from the outer tub wire guides. Remove the top, front top, and bottom counterweights. Remove the 4 dampers from the outer tub. Compress the dampers and position them towards the outside of the cabinet. Lift the outer tub assembly up, then release the 2 suspension springs from the slotted plastic inserts in the cabinet top braces. Carefully remove the tub assembly out the front of the cabinet. Note: When reinstalling the tub assembly, hook each of the suspension springs in the forward hole of the outer tub spring mounts.
Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Thursday, July 18, 2013