Hi, this is my 3rd question, trying to properly diagnose a problem with my dryer--please see my history for better explanation (you first answered me on 11/23) Here is the latest reply: Hi Bill. The Glo-Bar is heating and the booster and safety coils both being energized have opened the safety valve. The main valve is closed, as its coil is bypassed by the N.C. flame detector. When the Glo-Bar reaches ignition temperature, approximately 60 seconds or less, the flame detector is heated and opens. This places the main coil in series with the Glo-Bar. The main valve opens and combustion occurs. The main coil now in series with the Glo-Bar causes the Glo-Bar to cool down. However,the flame detector is held open by radiant heat from the gas flame. The booster coil is now also in series with the main coil and is essentially inoperative. Should a momentary power failure occur. The gas valve will shut off, and an attempt to restart will not occur until the flame detector cools and resets, approximately 30 seconds. You will need to replace the gas valve part # AP2043480. Thank You.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/questions-for-GE-Valve--gas-AP2043480-qid34022.aspx##ixzz1gYyfbGRx
This reply is helpful in explaining the theory of operation, but the suggestion to replace the gas valve doesn't help--I already bought a gas valve from you and installed it, with the same result. Now I have also replaced the flame detector, but the symptoms are exactly the same--somehow the gas valve electrically reopens for a few seconds after shutting down at the end of burn cycle, causing raw gas to flow. I metered across the flame detector and found that it goes open for that short time, which is why I replaced it. The gas valve was my first suspicion, but as I said I replaced it and still have the same problem. What other component can cause the valve to re-energize after a burn cycle? Thanks again, Bill
ANSWER Bill, We're back to a gas flow/pressure issue in the supply to the dryer, or a wiring issue between the radiant / flame sensor and the gas valve coils on the new gas valve check for a short to ground in the wires. As we noted in a previous response , gas pressure fluctuations high or low will cause the gas regulator on the gas valve to vent and produce an odor. If there is no wiring issue, you'll need to have the gas supply company or a servicer out, and test the pressure at the gas valve in both "static" and "under load" conditions. Good Luck and Thanks
Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Thursday, December 15, 2011