I am only getting 75 VAC at the Water inlet Valve. It should be 120 VAC. I have replaced the control board. Then a new water inlet valve. What else could cause this?
ANSWER Hi Kenneth. Remove the float switch cover. Is the float stem jammed off to one side not allowing full voltage to supply the valve? Bypass the switch wires together and then check for the 120 vac. Your neutral wire color is a blue color from the control board J9 connector. The hot 120 vac comes via the blk. on the water valve,drain motor, dispenser and the vent all the way from the black feed on the control board then the junction box. You need to use a volt meter with the black meter lead on a fresh ground and then the red meter lead on each black wire at each part to see where the 120 vac + leg may have a loose or a mis crimp. The door switches have 2- separate feeds. One switch is the white wire (neutral) feed from the junction box. The black wire from the junction box feed goes to the other door switch. You use the supplied wiring diagram in the toe kick cover or by the controls. Start at the water valve and then check each connection point going back while following the wiring diagram. You may have a chewed wire from varmits. Make sure the wire nuts are tight and the wires have sufficient twisted connection under the wire nuts. It is common for a solid wire and a stranded wire will not get "capped " and twisted together. The stranded wire has a tendency to get pushed onto the wire coating at the bottom of the bare stripped wire instead of the correct twist together method. Thank You.
Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Wednesday, March 28, 2012