The display was showing 9.1. then 8.9. and is now showing c.l. and seems to be stuck on drain. The original problem we had was that it stayed on all night and had to be manually turned off. When I used it again it seemed that it wasn't getting enough water to spin the arm. I am not sure what part would take care of these issues.
Answer Hello Bill,
These units have a flood switch made under the unit in the base assembly. If water down there raises the float even by a hair, the unit will drain the water out and will not complete the washing cycle. The most common cause or the issue is the water inlet valve 425458 not fully opening, which causes a dribble of water from the fill assembly on the side of the unit. This small dribble accumulates in the main base and generates the issue.
The washer is running i.e. the timer on the front is counting down, but is doesn't sound llike water is entering the dishwasher. The pump is running but no water and the pump makes an awful noise. The pump smells like it is overheating or caveating . Is it the water inlet valve and if so how do I check it? Can I do it from inside the dishwasher?
Answer Jesper, The overheating and cavitation noises from the pump, are most likely "normal" a lack of water in the pump assembly does produce noise and possibly a odor from the heater. Your first choice is to replace the fill valve 425458, based on your post description. Here's some "how to" help "To remove water valve:??Remove two (2) T-20 Torx screws from toe kick and tilt toe kick out from under dishwasher.??Remove base insulation (on models with insulation).??Move sump inlet hose away from water valve (without disconnecting it).??Disconnect wires from water valve, including ground wire.??Remove two (2) T-20 Torx screws from water valve.??Pull valve out from dishwasher and disconnect water hose from rear of valve. Remove any water from sump & base."