Dishwasher seems to run normally but timer clicks down to 1 minute and continues to run. I can cancel and drain. Rinse and hold runs fine, fills, runs and drains. But short-wash does not drain nor stop -- runs down to 1 minute and continues to run ---- and run times have increased from avg 29 mintues to 39 - 43 minutes. Incoming water temp is 128 degrees. Red heater wire from control module puts out 120 volts after a few minutes and continues throughout the cycle. Amp meter on the red wire reads initially 4+ amps but drops to below 2 amps in a few minutes throughout cycle. Bypassing the heater wire (made up a 'y' fitting to provide power to black/grey wire connector to module and continuous 120 volts to red wire) --- amp reading to heater red wire is still just below 2 amps. Ending water temp in washer is about 106 degrees. Do I have a bad control module, heater or ?
Answer John, You most likely have an issue with the water heater and or sensor, based on your post. If the water temp. is low, or doesn't increase during the wash cycle, the control will act irratic, and at the end of the cycle will have water and "stall" with 1 minute in the display, while the ontrol attempts to check and re calibrate itself. The easiest way to check for this is to start a cycle and wait 3 to 5 minutes, and check the water temp. the temperature should increase by two(2) degrees per minute, so you'll need to do several checks or use a multimeter with a temperature probe. If the temperature doesn't increase properly, replace the heater assembly 00480317.
I have a Bosch dishwasher that is not getting any power. Nothing lights up. There is power to the machine. I was wondering if there is a fuse on these or would it be a circuit board issue?
Answer Hello Jeff,
Before you start, kill the power supply to the unit and verify no voltage is present to the machine. Start at the power connection on the machine. Remove the kick panel and the cover where the wire nuts are located. Check to make sure the wire nuts are tight and both wires are securely in the nuts. If this checks out good, the next check is at the door switches inside the door panel. Check these for continuity and don't forget they show open unless you mash the button on the switch. Mashing the little button should give you continuity. If not, replace the door switch. Now go to the power button and make sure it shows continuity when activated. Check the float switch in the same manner also.
If all of these test satisfactorily, momentarily power up the unit and test at the board for 120Vac. Remember that the door switches and the power switch have to be activated. This is best done by simply closing the door and mashing the on switch. Now you should have voltage to the board. If you have voltage to the board and the unit will not start, check for voltage leaving the board. If there is only voltage on one terminal, this is an indication of a bad board since if the board sends power out to any components, you will read this voltage on another terminal. If voltage is on one terminal, the board will require replacement.