My defrost system is not working. I canged the control unit, the main power board and the thermostat. I checked the heater and get a reading of 28 ohms. I spent a lot of money and have no idea whats wrong. Can you please help?
Answer Hello Sal. If the main power, control board, and the defrost thermostat 5303918214 are new, and the unit does not defrost, you will need to look for bad wiring on the unit. If all of the wiring is good, then the only thing left is the heater 242044113 and you may be getting a false reading. Besure and make sure the wires are good on the unit. Hope this helps.
Temp in my refrigerator rose to 51° and freezer to 12°. There was a clicking sound about every ten 10 seconds. That stoped, then a loud huming sound. On back of unit in the evap fan area there was a small cold and sweat spot. Thoughts?
Answer Hello Al. My thought is that as long as the compressor is good, your inverter has probably failed. So first, you need to test the compressor. The compressor has three terminals on the side of it. To simplify instructions, let's call the terminals 1, 2, and 3. When you test for continuity from 1 to 2, write down the results. The same for 2 to 3 and finally 1 to 3. Looking at the results, two of the results added together should add up to the third result. In other words, if your results were "1", "3", and "2", this is a good compressor electrically as 1 plus 2 is 3. I hope I haven't confused you. If this test results good, the inverter 241577501 requires replacement. Hope this helped in your repair! Have a great day!
i bought the computer board that you gave me the part number to and the defrost still does not come on and there is still no power to the wires. any advise would be helpfull thanks phil
Answer Phil, Have you attempted to program a manual ADC Board test (The actuation code will be a minimum of (5) depressions of the light switch within a (6) second time period with the compressor running). Here are the voltage inputs for you to check :1. Check voltage between E4 and E8. You should have 115 VAC ± 10% as long as refrigerator is connected to house current. 2. If freezer control contacts are closed, there should be 115 VAC ± 10% between E4 and E2. If no voltage is present, check control. 3. If food compartment contacts are closed, there should be 115 VAC ± 10% between E4 and E6. If no voltage is present, check control. 4. With door open and refrigerator light switch contacts closed, there should be 115 VAC ± 10% between E4 and E7. If no voltage is present, check light switch. 1. If voltage is coming from freezer or food compartment control, there should be 115 VAC ± 0% between E4 and E9 to operate evaporator fan motor, unless it is in defrost or within 7 minute delay after defrost. (See NOTE A.)If no voltage is present, replace board. 2. If voltage is coming from freezer control, there should be 115 VAC ± 10% at either E4 or E1, if relay is set in defrost, or E4 to E3, if relay is set for compressor to run.
3. If there is voltage between E4 and E3, compressor and condenser fans should be running. If they are not, check voltage at compressor. If voltage is present, follow procedure to check compressor. If voltage is not present, check wiring between ADC and compressor.
Thanks and Good Luck