Freezer wasn't keeping food frozen and fridge was warm. Took inside back panel off and the fan was working but the coils were a block of ice. Turn off and thawed the block of ice. Turned back on has been keeping temp for six hours. What would cause this or what part may be going bad?
Answer Hello Steve. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the control board. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Side by side - top wasn't cold, bottom frozen on both sides. I took the inside panel off in the freezer & the condenser was encased with ice. I unplugged the fridge & let it thaw overnight. Plugged back in, hear the condenser running, got cold again but still nothing up top. I checked for air flow from the freezer into the fridge & there's nothing. Turned down fridge control to zero & heard several clicks. Turned all the way to 6 & it clicked again but also made a 'groaning' noise like the fan wanted to turn but couldn't. Tried removing the assembly to inspect the fan, but I can't figure out how to get it out; there's a harness coming in from the freezer side & it appears that I have to remove the front control unit along with the water filter unit to get to the damper control. Can you help?
Answer Hello Judi,
To check the fan you would remove the cover from the rear wall of freezer compartment. The fan in the freezer is what pushes the cold air to the refrigerator section. You would want to see if the damper between the two compartments is good. If your unit was frosted up then you would want to find out why. The evaporator coils may have been still impacted with ice. It usually takes more than 24 hours for them to thaw completely and this may be why you still were not getting cooling at the top portion of unit. When you remove the back wall check the defrost thermostat 5303918214 and heater 5303918255 for continuity. If you do not have continuity on either of the 2 then the one that does not have continuity you will want to replace. If both check ok then you will need to replace the adaptive defrost board 5303918476. This will also control the damper and if it has failed then the fan and damper may not work. The unit would also not be going through defrost cycle. If fan is not running check for 120 vac coming to the fan terminals. If you do not have 120 vac with unit on then the control is bad. To remove the control panel where the damper is, it is best to remove control and filter as well. There are 2 - 1/4" screws that hold the damper control part in place. If you take them out you can pull over on that piece. There are 2 clips at the front that you would have to pop loose by pull from left to right. Once loose you can pull that assembly down. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html