Control board lights up and setting temperature works but elements don't heat on bake or broil or convect. Could the board still be bad even though the digital display lights work or the thermal overload sensor is bad, what do you think ?
Answer Mike , Yes, it is possible for a control 316272208 to be programmed but not supply power to the elements. Both power legs (L1 and L2) enter the control and are distributed to the elements. If the L2 relay on the control has failed there will be no L2 power to the elements and they wont heat, but the L1 power will allow the control to be programmed and display properly. The thermal overload sensor will produce the same results if it is "open" as well. You'll need to check and make sure you have 220-240 VAC at the terminal block on the range, then check the L1 and L2 voltage on the wires to the elements, and trace back to the control from there.
The element in the oven does not get power. The control panel display shows 100 degrees and does not go up. Is there a switch that I need to replace? The control panel seems to be OK as I can set the desired temperature and it comes back to 100. But as the element does not get power, the displays remains at 100 degrees.
Answer Hi Dana. On the top of the unit to the lt. of the blower fan, there is a thermostat that may have opened and cuts the circuit to the element. You will need to quickly bypass the thermostat 2-wires together and tape them w/electrical tape (safety). If the element works now then I would also consider changing the oven sensor part # 316217002. If this thermostat has opened, it has had an over temp. issue. This weakens the oven sensor. Now test the element to see if it has opened. Part # 318255006. You will get 240 vac to the element during a bake command. You will need to unhook one side of the wires at the elmt. and insert the meter leads there to test. Be very careful. The elmt. usually ohms between 18-28 ohms on the ohms scale. Meter part # WB27T10549. Thank You.