Terminal Block Kit

Larry R

Answer Hello Larry. Test for power to the control board. If there is power there and it does not light up, you will need to replace the board in the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html 

Joe for Model Number FEF402BWA

Answer Hello Joe. Based on the information you provided, the relay is stuck and you will need to order and replace the control 903091-9051 on the unit. 

Texas Wolf for Model Number FEFL68GMA

Answer Hello, The terminals will not tighten up because the heat produced by the loose connection has ruined the threads on the terminal block screws. The terminal block will have to be replaced. The difference in the old terminal block and the new one is not an issue. Just attach the wires on the left connections to the single left terminal, the wires to the center connections to the single center terminal, and the same for the right. Just be sure not to cross any of the wires. The important part of the power cord connection is that the discoloration should be sanded away to expose shiny metal and the crimp connection to the eyelet should not be too brittle. If it is so brittle that the wires are cracking when it bends, the power cord, (pigtail), should be replaced to prevent the creation of a fire hazard. As another note, you will notice that the new terminal block comes with six nuts and six washers. When you get the terminal block mounted, you put the wires from the unit on the terminal block and then the flat washer then the first nut. The pigtail is then attached to the terminal block with the "curved" washer and second nut. This is how Underwriters' Laboratory has approved the installation of the cord. This way, if the cord, (pigtail), has to be replaced again in the future, the units' wiring does not have to be removed and a wire cannot slip off unnoticed. Only the pigtail wires can come off with the first nuts' removal. 

Melissa for Model Number FEF368CCSC

Answer Hello Melissa. Make sure the wiring is good on the unit. If so, it sounds like the clock assembly 5303935107 is bad and will need to be replaced in the unit. 

Sharon N. for Model Number 79095684301

Answer Hi Sharon. You may be experiencing a terminal block issue or a loose white neutral wire connection. Remove power. Remove the cord cover. Then feel the wires at the terminal block and follow the instructions labeled on the back. There are 3 wires that are black (L 1), white (neutral) and red (L 2). Between the outer 2 wires, the black and the red wires, you need to have close as possible to 240 vac. Now between the middle white wire , neutral you need to have as close as 120 vac as possible. If the terminal block nuts are loose, they will create a voltage supply loss to the clock (open neutral). Or the clock is bad. If it does not show the L.E.D. readouts, the clock is part # 316207511. It may also have a open circuit that supplies the elements proper voltage. Thank You. 

Chris for Model Number FEF368CCSC

Answer Chris, You're on the right track, Check the connections and wires on the bake element, and the element condition, no bubbles, grease spots or chips etc. If alls OK, you may want to consider an oven temp. sensor 316134900, it could be faulty and out of the proepr resistance range. Good Luck and Thanks