Frigidaire 3204267 Thermostat - AppliancePartsPros.com

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Part Number:	AP2131477
MFG Part Number:	3204267
Made by:	Frigidaire

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Problem: -Clothes taking too long too dry -Heating element will heat for about 2-3 min then cycle off, then and off etc... What I've done: -Dryer exhaust was painted shut. Fixed and used brush to remove about a garbage bags worth of lint! -Replaced the thermo couple that was directly attached to the dryer exhaust, not the one by the element. -Removed drum and verified element is in good shape and not grounded out. Confusion: -Does the dryer normally cycle on and off? -Is the high limit mounted by the element or to the exhaust? I don't know which one I've replaced? -The switch attached to the exhaust continues to cycle on and off -My amp meter read a consistent 19amps regardless of high, med or low temp setting Thank you. I wrote another question just before this one but it lacked detail so please disregard.

Jesse L. for Model Number older model frigidaire stacker washer/dryer gallery series

Answer Hello Jesse. It sounds like the unit is still clogged with lint. Check the inside of the dryer where the blower wheel is located and see if it is clogged. The heat should cycle on and off, but the long dry times is the venting for the unit.

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The dryer heats for approx 3 min and then the high limit cuts out for about 2 min. It continues this cycle. I replaced the high limit switch suspecting that it was cutting out improperly but no change in operation. The element is in good shape as has not grounded out to the frame. I have now removed the thermostat hoping that is the problem. Tested it on a frying pan and it got very hot before it opened, but it did open? There was also a smaller nickel sized contact which face the back of the machine? Can you offer any other clues?

Jesse L. for Model Number frigidaire stacker washer dryer

Answer Jesse, The smaller nickel sized thermostat should be the "thermal limiter" It is a "one shot" thermostat, if it "opens" it doesn't reset, and the dryer won't operate until it is repalced. If the hi limit thermostat is opening, and you've replaced it, your first check needs to be an air flow issue, Have you checked the exhaust vent pipes and vent hood for clogs, restrictions and kinks ? You'll also want to check the lint filter, blower housing, and blower wheel for lint, restrictions and air leaks. You may also have a "sticky" control thermostat, nort opening at the preset temperature(145-155 dgrs.) and allowing the dryer to heat to the hi limit temperature.

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Recently dryer seems on high heat regardless of setting . Good airflow from vent . Drum is turning and no unusual noises Back of dryer--high middle- is too hot to touch and paint looks heat discolored . Thanks for the help .

Linty for Model Number KENMORE 417.81142000

Answer Linty, You will want to check the air flow to the outside of home and make sure that there is no clog. If there is a clog it will cause overtemps in the unit. If the venting checks ok then you would need a new cycling thermostat [134048800].

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Latest Questions

My dryer decided to not turn on at all. The washer part of it workds fine but the dryer will not do anything. I recently relplaced the heating element which had what I believe to be a thermostat in it but It looks like there is one on the blower tube. The door switch tested fine also. What else could I check the thermastat on the vent tubing looks like it has two parts to it.

Ben G for Model Number glet1041as1

Answer Hello Ben, The first thing you want to do is to check your dryer venting to make sure that the vent is not clogged. Check from blower wheel all the way to the outside of home. Once you make sure it is clean then you want to do a continuity check across the thermal fuse or thermostat on the blower housing. If this reads open then you need to replace the thermostat 3204267. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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I reconnected the high limit thermostat so that I could check the power to it as it has did or didn't cycle. After I had turned the dryer on, the coil began to cycle properly. It would stay on for 15-20 seconds, then cycle off for the same amount of time; for which it then came back on for the same amount of time. It continued this cycle and after about 20 minutes, I decided that my issue had miraculously been solved. I washed and added the washed load to the dryer. It dried them perfectly. I added a 2ndload washed load. After about 15 minutes, I began to smell an electrical burn. I ran to the dryer to find my wall smoking! I shut the dryer off and unplugged it. After an hour, I plugged the dryers back in, turned the heat setting to its lowest, and restarted the load. After about 10 minutes, the smoke returned in the plug and this time it tripped the breaker. Now, it simply throws the breaker each time I start it. Help! I've already invested in a heater coil (stated in initial post) or I would just buy a new or used dryer. Help!!!

Slam for Model Number GLER341AS2

Answer Hello Slam. It sounds like the problem has became a direct short and now you need to take the unit apart and look for the shorted part in the unit. You should see where the part is melted to ground.

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So if the high limit is reading closed with no power to it, then it must be my timer?

Slam for Model Number GLER341AS2

Answer Hello Slam. No, if the high limit is reading closed, it can start to break down under load conditions and cause the unit to fail in heating properly. That is why it was suggested to test when running and see if it continues to feed AC power and break AC power. This is dangerous due to a live power test and you need to use caution here. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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