Just got stove out of storage was set up for butane I changed out orifices to use nat gas. Found while testing oven that broiler lights but top inside oven does not (at all) tried holding door safety switch and manually lighting, didn't work (no gas) also tried while on bake removing gas line to see if any gas was coming out of safety valve and found it was not. There is evidence of mice so I have it narrowed down to 2 things either bad s-valve or from what I read as a response to another Q on this sight is it possible that a mouse has chewed through control or igniter wire (blue wire) ???
Answer Grr, Which of the burner igniter 316489400 or 318177710 did not glow ? It may be as simple as a cracked or broken igniter, when the unit was moved in or out, they're fragile. An easy check is with a multi meter set for 120 VAC , disconnect the wire connector at the igniter, program a bake cycle and check for voltage on the wires from the chassis/control no voltage, would indicate a broken damaged wire(mouse) or a faulty ERC/Clock. If you have voltage, then the igniter has an open circuit and will need to be replaced. The safety valve is not the issue at this point, the igniter has to produce a 3.2 to 3.6 amp draw when it's glowing, in order to open the internal switch in the safety valve, or there will not be any gas to ignite.
I have a GE wall oven JGRS06BEJ1BB. The oven kept getting a delayed igniton in the oven. So the gas was flowing and then igniting with a loud bang. I installed a new ignitor but the problem still exists. The gas will flow even before the ignitor has a chance to fully glow. Could the issue be a bad safety valve?
Answer Hello Brett,
You are correct and I strongly suggest that you turn off the gas and electricity to the unit until it has had the safety valve WB21K5009 replaced to prevent injury, damage to personal property, or both. Since the issue has occurred probably more than once, I would also replace the burner WB16K5014 in case it has incurred damage also.