I have this dish washer at work in our lab and is used to wash lab bottles only. we've had to quit using it for now because it don't appear to be draining all the soap out and the bottles are not coming clean. we have not put soap in it in some time now but when you turn it on and open the door there's a lot of soap in the washer.
But when it stops all the water drains out. Can you tell me what the problem is so we can repair it?
Answer Hello William,
It sounds like either the wrong detergent was put in the unit or it was over soaped. This can take a very long time to flush the detergent out of the unit since detergent tends to cling to the inside of the water carrying parts of the unit. You can use an old technicians trick to clear the excess detergent as long as you follow through with the second step. First step, start the dishwasher and wait to hear the water filling, (no dishes, no detergent). Open the door and put in one table of a vegetable based oil, (corn oil, vegetable oil, linseed oil, etc.). Once the unit has completed its' fill and circulated the water for about 2 minutes, drain the unit and start the cycle over. When you hear the water coming in, (second step), open the door and add one quart of white vinegar. Close the door and let the unit complete the entire cycle, (no detergent or dishes), and turn the heated dry off. This will clear the vegetable oil from the unit to restore normal operation.
As a note it is now time to run a normal load of dishes, (scraped, not rinsed), to ensure normal operation. Be sure the unit is not run with detergent if the dishes have been pre-rinsed. The chemical reaction produced by the detergent is a very strong one. It is designed to attack food particles. If food particles are present, it will occupy the chemical reaction. If the dishes have been rinsed off before putting them in the dishwasher, the chemical reaction will attack the patterns on the plates, the rubber seals in the dishwasher, and will turn the silverware grey. If food particles are being re-distributed instead of producing a satisfactory wash result, the water temperature should be verified to be at least 120°F and the heating circuit should be checked for issues since the water temperature has to reach 140°F before the chemical reaction can take place. Since it is necessary for the food particles to mix with the water so they can drain out instead of floating on the water and beaching in the unit floor waiting on the rinse water to pick them up and re-distribute them on the dishes. Another note, newer units will not operate properly when there is an instant water heater in place. To force these to operate properly, the hot water in the sink has to be left running during the units' initial fill to get the proper water temperature fill. This is all because the control board is looking for specific conditions before the cycle can complete successfully.
The leak is coming from the drain solenoid when it draining. When removing unit I noticed the shaft from solenoid was loose. Do I need the whole assembly?
Answer Hello Jdub,
When the drain shaft is leaking, you can sometimes replace the seal but if there is wear on the shaft itself, it will still leak. It would be safer to replace the complete assembly WD26X10013 to prevent a recurrence of the same leak.