Slowly,over three days started to lose cold temperature, from 39F to 69F. Dampener item replace about 1&1/2 years ago and seems like the same problem. Freezer is OK. Any ideas?
Answer Rich, Check and make sure the refrigerator lights go out when the door is closed, and the doors close and seal properly. Check and make sure there is no frost or ice on the back wall of the freezer compartment, and you can hear and feel the evaporator fan running and moving the air. If all's OK then start at the damper assembly WR09X10114,again.
I removed the part and I don't see anything that opens or closes. However, it does have a power cord that is connects up test it out before paying over 220 for something I may not need.
When you look at the bottom of the damper assembly there is an opening. You would want to check the door on the damper to make sure that the door is not broken. If broken it will need to be replaced. To test the unit you would test from the control board in the back to make sure that power is being supplied to it. If there is power then the part would need to be replaced. If no power then the control board is the issue.
I have a GE PFS22SISBSS. Trying to troubleshoot why the refrigerator is not chilling. The freezer reads 0 degrees, the refrigerator reads 60. The setting on the refer is 34, but it never gets there. Pressing the turbo cool button doesn't work either. Prior to this, both freezer and refrigerator couldn't get cold. However and since, we've disconnected the appliance and let it defrost for 1/2 day. After cleaning up, this allowed the freezer to get down to 0 degrees. But the refrigerator portion still has a problem.
What part will resolve this problem?
You will want to make sure that the evaporator fan is running and make sure that the damper door is opening. If the fan motor is not running then you will want to make sure that you are getting 12 vdc to the fan motor. You will also want to check the evaporator coils to see if they are impacted with frost. If they are impacted with frost then the unit has a defrost failure in which you can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html