The dryer does not dry the clothes all the way. They come out damp. We set the cycle to the desired setting "Cottons - More dry" and it will run and shut off but
the clothes are still a little damp? What gives?
Answer Hello Robert. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.
Dryer runs but wont heat. I assume the element is bad. If I order AP2620171, must I remove the drum to get to the element or can I get to the heating element assembly from the back? Just looking for the easiest may to install the element.
Answer Hello Roy. Yes, you will need to remove the drum to replace the heater if it is bad. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Only one of my heating coils heats up. When I switch the power connector wire the one that wasn't working heats up and the one that was working doesn't. All thermostats have continuity. It appears that the grey wire from the control panel to the inner heat coil is the culprit. Please advise. Thanks - John
Answer John, You'll need to be careful and run a "live " voltage test at the control board. Disconnect the gray wire from terminal #10 on the control board, Start the dryer on any heat cycle and temperature. Take the meter probe and touch one probe on the #10 terminal and the other probe to chassis ground. You should have a reading of 110-120 VAC , if the"inner coil" relay is closing and operating properly. If there's No voltage, check the black wire on terminal #9, for 110-120 VAC to chassis ground, if there's no voltage, the black jumper wire is broken from the "J" terminal to the #9 terminal on the control board.If there's voltage on terminal #10 Then the gray wire is broken and will need to be repaired or replaced. If there's no voltage on terminal #10, but you have voltage on terminal #9, the relay has failed and you'll need to replace the control board WE4M296 . Good Luck and Thanks