Condenser fan runs but compresser doesn't. Replaced main board to no avail. Have 120 volts to inverter on the side of the compresser but no start. Any idea how to test inverter or to know what the signal is suppose to be on the red and white wires coming from the main board? Tks
Answer Hi Stevo. Remove all compressor leads connected to the inverter board after marking them to insure proper replacement. I would use a volt/ohm meter part # TJMA-DM1 to assist. you in your diagnosis. Make sure all windings ohm out to 10 ohms and not shorted to chassis ground. The brown , blue , and black wire going directly to the compressor. From the board on the red and white input voltage to the inverter board is 120 vac. the output is measures on all 3wires from 80-240 vac and should read 57-104Hz. It is a 3-phase inverter board output and it will damage the compressor when 120 vac is directly applied to the compressor. If your model ends in the last few letters (after the letter A)- in BB, CC or WW the inverter part # is WR55X10855 is not available. Sorry. Thank You.
My refrigerator is four years old, and gets heavy usage from family of 7. A day ago we notice that the freezer was not cooling as well as the main compartment. Everything else is working, the lights, a fan, etc. Could the problem be the inverter or the main board?
Answer Hi Joe. Is the evaporator fan turning? That motor with a thermistor is part # WR60X10074,without is part # WR60X10185. Is the top evaporator cover frosted up? If so you will need to change the defrost thermostat part # is WR50X10088. There is also a thermistor in there as well part # WR55X10025. These control the defrost time. Is the compressor on top and condenser fan turning? If the condenser coils are stopped up this will boil the freon. Clean the coils. The condenser fan motor is part # WR60X10209.
Make sure nothing in the shelves or bins are holding the door's slightly open. Hope this helps. Thank you.