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Motor Dc Cond Fan

Part Number: AP4265957
MFG Part Number: WR60X10209
Made by: GE
Our Price
$42.59
Regularly You Save
$63.92 $21.33

In Stock — Ships Tuesday Guaranteed

Satisfaction Rating (2)

Questions & Answers

36 Questions & Answers



Description

12 Volt Condenser Motor

Genuine GE part. GE brands include General Electric, Hotpoint, RCA, and others. See all items in Refrigerator Motor.
GE also makes various appliance models for Sears / Kenmore.

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Cross Reference Information

Part Number WR60X10209 (AP4265957) replaces WR60X10065, WR60X10080, 1195784, AH1483567, EA1483567, PS1483567, WR60X10042, WR60X10053, WR60X10081, WR60X10155, WR60X10216.

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Repair Video

How to Replace Motor Dc Cond Fan #WR60X10209

Step by step instructions on how to replace a Motor Dc Cond Fan #WR60X10209 for Refrigerator made by GE. Note: This video is intended to give you the general idea of the part replacement procedure. Your appliance may differ depending on the manufacturer and model.


 

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Questions & Answers

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I have ge side by side pss26ngpabb. First noticed water leaking from freezer section. Both feezer and cold food section warm. Not sure if compressor was running at this time. After clean up unplugged for some time then powered up fridge.The compressor,compressor fan, evap fan, and cold section fan powered up. The freezer section started to cool, and eventually achieved freezer temp 0 and cold section 37. I had removed evaporator cover earlier to watch for ice formation. The ice formation was fairly significant. Leading me to test for a defrost problem. I tested heater and thermostat for continuity on the main board. checked out ok. Also checked evaporator and freezer thermistors using a cup of ice water and both at 16 ohms. Double checked defrost heater buy removing it and testing for continuity result ok. So it is the main board. Correct? But I still was not convinced because the ice formation was uniform except at the very top rung of the evaporator coil where the defrost thermostat and thermistor are connected. Also the freezer and cold section again became very warm.My wife discovered this condition,so I am not sure but it seems that compressor had stopped. The ice on the evap coils was melted when discovered. At this point she adusted the fridge temp and the unit seemed to start running,and cooling again. Is the compressor shuting off because of heavy load as some kind of safety measure? The compessor is very hot to touch when unit is plugged in and it never seems stop running.I would assume there is some type of thermal protection for the compressor. Currently the unit is running and cooling. I have unplugged the unit and defrosted it. Starting temp of freezer 40 degrees C and cold section 60 degrees.After 2 + hours temp F 17 Cold 37. The condenser fan is running at 4 dc volts. I have been monitoring it since start up. (Also checked power to other fans via main board checked ok) Seems that upon start up the condenser fan should run at 12 volts not 4 volts. Correct ? I am not sure but thinking that the compessor fan motor is variable speed, but again on start up (heavy cooling mode) would it not run at 12 volts. Would this be causing the compressor to overheat and stop cooling? Is this a main board problem? So any suggestions ? Thank you in advance. one last thing I did check cold section thermistors upper at 16.3 ohms and the lower was 15.6 ohms. used ice water to test

Chris C. for Model Number PSS26NGPABB

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The cylindrical shaped condenser coil is full of dust. I cleaned half of it that was accesable from the back of the fridge. Can excess dust on coil decrease efficiency?

Bill for Model Number GSH25JFTA CC

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I think the condenser motor is bad on my unit. At first, the freezer had a thin sheet of ice in the very bottom under the drawer. Stuff on top shelves began to thaw but items on bottom were fine. Fridge was working okay. Now, the top half of the fridge is not cold, though the bottom half is (bag salad in bottom crisper door froze, in fact). The top half of freezer is luke warm too, but items in drawer and bottom shelf are frozen, next shelf above is cold but not frozen, etc. Ice maker will not work either. The condenser fan motor was not turning until I cleaned that whole area and it began to turn, but seems to have stopped again. Would it be the only/primary thing to cause this type issue or should I also look to replace something else? I'd prefer to order what I need all at once and see how much it will cost total, to see if worth trying to fix. Don't want to spend $300+ on a compressor kit or something; I'd just go get a $500 replacement fridge... Thanks!

Kinmanfridge for Model Number HSS25IFMCWW

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Latest Questions

Hi , ge fridge , bottom mount freezer , evaporator fan not blowing. I had the board with me wr55x10956. Installed ,but fan still not blowing , freezer working, fridge warm. I want to take the evaporator cover off to get to fan. I am not sure how to go about it. The drawer has to come off. It has an icemaker as well. Mainly concerned with getting drawer and track railing off. Seems very involved.

Murray for Model Number pfcf1nfxcww

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I have a Summit brand refrigerator that uses an evaporator fan motor (no longer available) that appears to be quite similar to above named GE model in size and appearance. Mine says 11.3 Volts, and the watts listed is 4.83 watts. (yours, 12 Volt, 2.2 watts). Would the difference in watts be crucial? ONLY IF COMPATIBLE:Lastly mine terminates simply in a 2 prong plug, colored red and black. Could you tell which colors of the WR60X10209 would be the equivalent, or the "live" DC power cords? Thanks!

Dave

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My refrigerator stopped cooling, both the freezer and refrigerator. The water dispenser also stopped working. I thought it was the main control board so I replaced it. For 1 week after that, everything worked fine. Unfortunately, now after a week and 1 day with the new control board, and I am back to the same problem. Any ideas?

Mia for Model Number gsh25sgress

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