I received my new double oven control board. The old board has A black and white wire on the L1-2 terminal which is by itself. On the new board, it does not have that connect. From looking at the drawing supplied with the part (P/N: WB27T10287), I think it goes to the common terminal on the broil 2 relay. Is that correct?
Answer Hello Ken. Retrofit of Sanyo / Torisan ERC3H or ERC3DD range control in place
of Invensys or Siebe or Robertshaw.
Kit contains: 1 control
1 lock motor assembly (30” wall ovens, only)
Suggested tools: 1/8” flat screwdriver
Short or 90° ¼” nutdriver
Medium Phillips screwdriver
1. Kill power. Access rear of control by dropping the control panel (3 screws underneath control panel
on wall ovens) ( 4 screws on rear wire cover on freestanding range). Protect the panel from scratching.
2. Preparation of harness for Torisan ERC. The yellow (bake), violet (broil) and/or yellow (convect)
lead terminals for the elements may have a keyed housing. (Fig A). This has to be removed. Insert a
small screwdriver or awl into the front (opposite side from lead) and pry the internal retainer away
from the brass colored terminal. Slide housing off terminal. 3. General controller changeout. Transfer the leads from old control to the new control. The terminals
are in the same approximate positions and are named the same. The VIOLET, YELLOW and
YELLOW for CONVect insert onto terminals located ON TOP of the relays on the Torisan control.
Connectors with plastic housings insert with flat side toward small gap between terminal and wall
(Figs B). Fig B.2
THE BROIL RELAY HAS TWO CONNECTIONS (Fig D): VIOLET goes to NO and BLACK (L1A)
goes to COM. The BAKE has only the YELLOW to NO and CONV has only the YELLOW for
CONVect to NO. The letters NO and COM are small and are molded into the relay covers adjacent to
the terminals. There are color dots corresponding to the lead colors on the relays. (Fig D)
The new control may not have a GND terminal for the green wire. On models with steel control panels,
the ground wire must remain connected to the Clock Bracket. The terminal for the control must be
taped or tucked under the clock bracket before re-assembly. On models with plastic control panels, the
green wire should be removed. 4. Special consideration for Double Oven controls. ( Control has Relays for Both Upper and Lower Ovens)
Beware the GREY for MDL1 and BLACK/WHITE for MDL2 have their position reversed
on the new control. (See Fig F) Be sure to test Clean door latching operation before leaving. 5. LATCH MOTOR CHANGE OUT. On 30” Single and Double Wall ovens it is necessary to change
the lock motor assembly from the original Kingston (Fig G) to a lower profile type (Fig H) to provide
clearance for the terminals on top of the power relays. This should be done while control is out.
Remove two screws that are facing up on the latch assembly base plate just behind the vent trim and to
the right of the hook. Disconnect the 3-lead switch harness by squeezing the locks on the connector
side. Disconnect two individual in line black power leads to the motor.
The new latch assembly (Fig H) fits into same mounting holes and harness connections. The black
motor leads can be swapped.
6. The membrane keypad connector may have a vertical lock bar instead of horizontal. When
reassembling the control panel, check that no leads interfere with latch moving parts. Check all bake,
broil, clean, convect, oven light operations after assembly.