My GE Gas oven quit working today. First the ignitor would glow but would the gas would not flow. The only way to get the gas flowing in the burner was to ignite a top burner. Now nothing happens. Is this an ignitor issues, safety valve, or thermostat problem? Any advice you have is greatly appreciated.
Don
Answer Don,
It sounds like it could be a bad igniter but you will want to test the system to make sure of the correct part failure. Test for 3.2-3.6 volts AC at the gas safety valve with the igniter turned on. If the voltage is there, you have a bad safety valve. If the voltage is low, you have a weak igniter and the igniter will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
The oven has no electrical power to it. This happened all at once. My hushand thinks it might be the thermostat. What do you think?
Sandra L for Model Number jgbs23weh4ww
Answer Sandra,
You can test the thermostat by check across the red and yellow wires for 120 vac. If there is 120 vac then the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced. If there is not 120 vac then you would need to check your oven control and bake igniter.
The switch I have has two wires on the same side. One is red marked p1 the yellow one is marked 1. Connections on each side. I was told by an agent this is a direct replacement part. Due to wire the changes, can you please send detail instructions. Thank you
Kathy P. for Model Number rgb524peh4wh
Answer Hello Kathy,
Since thermostats are not polarized, either wire can be connected to either side. The switch will not know the difference. If you hook it up and it is working, you can swap the wires positions and try it again and it will work. As long as the second wire is long enough to reach the terminal to connect it, it will work normally.