Where can I get a ge dryer belt?
Answer Terrica, I believe your model should read DDE7200RALWH. The belt is part number WE12X10014. Thanks!
No heat in 2 of the 3 timer cycles. Continuity checks good on the heating elements (19 ohms), safety and hi-limit switches on heating element shroud. Also, took apart the timer box and found some burnt contacts; I sanded them/made them shiny again, but that did not resolve the issue. Maybe the timer contacts are worn down too much and not making a good contact? Can you buy just the contact strips? I also tighten the electrical pigtail cord ground wire which was very loose on the chassis. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to ensure I buy the correct part. Thanks, Mac
Answer Hello Mac,
If the unit heats in one of the cycles, all of the thermostats, thermal fuses and cut-outs and the heating element have to be good. This points directly at the timer since it is the only component that is common to the complaint.
In answer to your question, individual parts for the timer stopped being available in the 80's or so. You will have to replace the entire timer assembly.
This all actually makes perfect sense. The loose connections at the terminal block for the pigtail was a point of high resistance. Think of it this way: A point of high resistance causes excessive current draw. Excessive current flow produces heat. Heat increases resistance which increases current flow. This is infinite until you either have a complete loss of electrical continuity or a fire. In this case, the increase of current flow within the circuit and the magnetic field generated by it, caused the current to try to continue to flow across the timer contacts when they opened. This excessive current flow is what burned the contacts in the timer. Basically what I'm saying is, you have found the cause of the issue, now you just have to correct what the issue caused.
Let me commend you on a fine job.