Main wash motor froze and then burned out the controller too i had to buy a new motor so the completely assembled sump with all motors and valves and heating element was a real steal for +$10
Mike K. • Fort Collins, CO • May 01, 2015
Appliance: LG Dishwasher LDS5811BB
My Repair & Advice Featured Story
I bought a new controller first and installed it. The exact replacement controller was no longer available and I had to modify two AC connectors that changed from 3 pins with two wires to two pins with two wires. This was not expected but I made it work just fine by getting the three pin connectors on the cable to fit the two pin by breaking out the center web in the board two pin and then shaving off the raised key plastic on the wires. Then on power up, I found that the wash motor did not turn. The controller board tries a low voltage short power burst to the wash motor and watches for it to turn via a sensor. The new controller survived the start attempt and I could hear it buzz as it turned on the motor power. I quit right away and then opened up the sump and from the top and found the impeller on the wash motor frozen pretty hard. I decided to replace the motor but then I found the complete Sump Assembly for $135 and bought that. The removal and install of the sump was pretty difficult and there was no instruction page. I figured out how to use the two white rings to release the tabs that lock the sump into the stainless floor of the wash compartment. Getting the new sump in with the surrounding new gasket took a few tries and some motor connectors bent their connector tabs when they passed the edge of the floor. Getting the gasket uniform enough and well centered took some fussing with a 3/16" flat blade round shaft screwdriver. Gently working it around between the upper floor edge and the gasket to raise it to the top of the sump assembly and make it even out. Then I had to stand with one foot on the sump and bounce up and down until I heard the two latches seat. In starting the sump into the opening, I found that it was necessary to work the third latch into position carefully and press the rear end of the sump down until the back latch was secure. I turned the machine on its side to view what was going on and then righted it so I could put my weight on top of the new sump. Do this carefully so as not to tear the filter screens on the surface. I mostly tried to put the ball of my foot near the sump outer front edge of the new sump and bounce up and down. That did the trick. Then I connected all the electrical connectors back up. (I took pictures with my cell phone camera just in case the wire re-connect was confusing. I double checked that there were no loose or missing wires. Then I reinstalled the machine in the cabinet and connected the power, water and drain lines back up. I then ran a simple rinse only cycle and listened carefully to be sure that the drain pump motor and then the water fill and then the wash motor started smoothly. I ran a real wash load after that and it worked well on heavy soiled pans. That was the end of the repair. I suggest checking that the front door support springs and ropes are still seated. I need to pull my unit back out to make the door suspension work better..... All in all a lot of work to get the sump in.