Ice maker/water not working with dimming LED, power management, clicking from back
Henry O. • Temecula, CA • April 01, 2014
Appliance: General Electric Refrigerator GSH25VGREWW
My Repair & Advice
The indication was that when I tried to use the icemaker or water dispenser, the green LED on the front would dim and the ice maker dispenser wouldn't work. It was intermittent at first, but this indicated it may be a power management issue, in that insufficient voltage was getting to the ice dispenser motor. I unplugged the unit to reset the electronics for about a minute, and when I plugged it back it the compressor would try to turn on (solenoid or relay would click about every two seconds) but it wouldn't run, but eventually went on. The next day I tried to reset it again, but this time it continued clicking every two seconds, so after a few hours I unplugged it. This was a second indication there may not be enough power getting to the compressor. I searched You Tube under the Model number and found a video with the same clicking issue, and he showed that he replaced the main board in the back. I accessed the back panel and sure enough there is a power transformer on the board, so I figured this was the problem.
When I searched the model number and Main Board your site came up with the part. It was the best price we had seen. I ordered the part on Monday evening about 6:30 pm, but then called early Tuesday morning to see if I could expedite shipping. Since it was coming from Ventura and I'm in Temecula and your company sends by FedEx there was no need to change the shipping. I got the part Wednesday by 2:00 pm and had it up and running by 3:00 pm. I only needed to change the connector for the ground wire from a screw hole type to a plug in type (like a speaker connector) on the new board. I think this was a quarter inch female connector and it would be nice if you supplied this alternate part with the board.
The cover comes off with just three hex head screws. My hand held screw driver receiver for the phillips/standard screw driver tip actually fits the hex head screws. The only difficult part is removing the old board which is held on with four expanding tip plastic arrows type retainers. I found an old tube dispenser tip (like the kind for a caulking tube - but clean) with a small opening in my tool box and used this to compress the end of the plastic retainers by just pushing it onto them without breaking them and then the old board slipped right off. There are four wire harnesses that are all different so your not likely to confuse their placement, just pay attention. The main power harness is also keyed so you can only connect it one way.
The ice maker water line inlet is above the power board location. Although the cover has a foam seal, if this seal is bad and the water line leaks from above this could allow water to get into the board location. If you have evidence of this you should seal the cover after screwing it in place with duct tape or metal foil tape to protect it.
While I had the unit out I also took off the back lower panel and vacuumed out the dust (carefully) around the heat exchanger coils.
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