Replaced ribbon harness still no power to water or ice dispensers.
Answer Hello Tim. If there is power coming to the power board, but not out, you will need to replace the power board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I was replacing the actuator of my Frigidaire side-by-side, as it broke. The ice dispenser was working fine. Since it is tricky to install the water hose back on, apparently it fell out of place, and water was coming out from the side.
Now, that I fixed the hose issue, there is no longer any contact with the outside board (the one that is attached to the black cover). How can I test the board to see if it was damaged due to the water incident, or if the ribbon may be damaged? I don't want to order the part, when it may have been something simple to fix.
Also, how can I install the water hose correctly next time? It is so rigid that it is difficult to handle with such little space.
Answer Hello Javier. Just test the switches and make sure everything works like it should on the dispenser. If so, the boards are fine. If not, the boards are bad. As for the hose, you just have to make sure the end of the hose comes out the holder in the actuator and locks into place.
I have a Frigidaire FSC23F7DSBA and the ice dispenser only dispenses crushed ice even when the cube button is green. What causes this and what needs to be replaced. Ice maker makes ice the way it's supposed to. I will no longer dispenses cube ice.
Answer Hello Noel. Pull the ice bin back out and take a look at the cradle and solenoid that the arm on the side of the bin goes into. The solenoid has to lift the arm to bypass to cutters. Hers a link that may help.
Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/47859-ice-maker-only-dispenses-crushed-ice.html#ixzz2ttQdWJxb'>http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/47859-ice-maker-only-dispenses-crushed-ice.html#ixzz2ttQdWJxb
When I press the paddle for the ice the light comes on, there is a motor sound, but the part the moves the auger does not move. When I press the water paddle, the light comes on and it clicks but no water comes out. Is it possible that it's frozen back there?
Answer Hello Charlene,
It sounds like the auger motor is freezing up. This can be caused by the temperature being set too cold in the freezer section. To thaw it out, remove the ice bin and use a hair dryer on the auger motor cover, (back of shelf where the ice bin sets). It takes about 15 minutes to thaw it out like this. If this doesn't correct the issue, open the door, remove the crusher bin, and try turning the auger drive bar by hand. If it turns without turning the auger motor, the drive bar (AP4298816)
and/or the auger motor (AP4316002) shaft are stripped and will have to be replaced.
The water reservoir is probably frozen from lack of air circulation. If the fresh food temperature control is set too warm, this cuts down on the air circulation and the cold air will migrate to the bottom, freezing the water reservoir. The water reservoir can be thawed out the same way as the crusher solenoid. A hair dryer directed toward the water reservoir for about 15 minutes should result in water being dispensed. To correct the issue, set the freezer to a warmer setting and set the fresh food section to a colder setting. This will basically call for temperature more often and the fans will kick on, stirring the air which will prevent items in the bottom of the fresh food section, including the water reservoir, from freezing.
Going Batty over this. It does not appear to be the power board P/N 241708102. SYMPTOMS: No Ice Dispense, No Freezer lights. What Works: Makes Ice, Dispenses water, Extra Ice Production works, Panel Light works, Freezer and Fridge Hold Temp, Defrosts properly, Fridge lights work.
TEST: (power control board) At the wiring harness, if I jump the 120 VAC and the Water connections It triggers the water dispenser. If I jump any of these; VAC+FICE, VAC+AUGER, VAC+CUBE, VAC+FICE+AUGER, VAC+FICE+CUBE+AUGER I get Nothing.Used a power tester to check the VAC+NEUTRAL and it works. So I believe the issue is AFTER the power board in the door panel dispenser assembly. I don't know where to look.
INFO: This occurred after a Family Member with OCD visited and was trying to get one ice cube out of the dispenser by banging the heck out of the dispenser lever. Next day the freezer lights went out and it stopped dispensing ice. Any Idea where I can look Next? Servo, Fuse, another circuit?
Please, the men in the white coats will be coming for me soon! :))
The first thing that you will want to check is the wire harness connection at the door. Make sure that there are no loose or broken wires or connections. Once you verify this then you will want to do voltage test on the board. When you jump the board there may be power going to the components but the components may be bad. You will want to check to make sure that you are getting voltage going out of the board by checking L1 to each component for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the power board would be bad. If there is at each component 120 vac then you will want to check each component to make sure that it is receiving the signal. If not then you will need to find the open wire. If it is getting power to the component then you will need to replace the component.
There is no light on my ice and water dispenser. Also no ice or water comes out when I try to operate it. Everything else works fine. Not sure which part I need.
Answer Hello Jesse. Based on the information you provided, you will need to replace the power board 241708102 and the control board on the unit. However, if there is power tot he power board and nothing coming out, you can replace just the power board in that case. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html