The over load relay went out on the compressor. I picked up the replacement (part#5304410951) that is totally different looking and has no instructions. So how do I install it or find out how to do it? Thanks for your time.
Answer Hello Pete,
The hot wire will attach to the overload, (small white part with one terminal), and the neutral will hook to the side of the relay, (brown component that goes to the compressor after the overload goes on), to terminal 2. The capacitor will have one wire go to one side of the relay (terminal 1) and the other wire to the opposite side of the relay(terminal 3).
I have a Frigidaire side by side. Sometimes smoke comes from the freezer. I unplug it for 5min and plug it back and it works fine for a day or so. Coulde it be overlad relay kit.
Answer Little Eddie,
The overload relay kit would not produce a smoke type vapor to come out of the freezer compartment. It may be that when you open the unit it was in a defrost cycle and you are seeing condensation. The other components that could potentially cause the issue would be a defrost heater or the motor. Normally these parts will not smoke but the heater could produce the water vapors or condensation.
I'm installing a new starter relay. The revised relay has 4 terminals and I only need two. The old one is so fried I dont see a number or letters. My wires are red for overload and white and blue for starter. The new relay has one smaller terminal 3 normal. The white wire connecter on my refrigerator is smaller than red and blue.
Answer Hello Gayla,
The hot wire is the one that was connected to the overload and it will connect to the new overload. The other wire is the neutral and it will connect to the terminal labeled 2 on the new start relay. If the terminal is the wrong size, you will have to change the spade connector. You can easily strip the wire about 1/4 inch and crimp on a new 1/4 inch female spade connector (AP5641949).
I installed the relay and overload as instructed. But it seems that the compressor is not running. I heard "ta ta " sound. Is there something wrong?
Answer Hello Jeff,
You need to check the voltage to the red line and make sure it is 120Vac. Also, I would check the new start device to make sure it is good. Do this by shaking it. If it rattles, it's bad. If not, and the voltage is good, you may have to replace the capacitor 218909902. The capacitor should be wired to both sides of the start relay. One wire to each side.
Thanks for prompt reply. I almost got there. Just need a little bit more info. On the relay, there are four legs with 1 and 2 on one side, and 3,4 (short) on the other. How do I wire capacitor, with 1,2 or 1,3, or else. In the frige, I assume the red wire is hot, right? So red does to overload?
Answer Hello Jeff,
Now with the wiring diagram I can tell you with confidence, the red wire is hot, and the white wire is neutral. The relay has two sides and if you look closely at it you can see that the two terminals on each side are actually connected so even though there are four terminals, it is actually two points in electrical terms. In light of this, the two wires from the capacitor connect to each side. The polarity does not matter in this instance, but one wire to each side. And yes, red is hot and it connects to the overload.
Could you elaborate a little more on how to wire the new part since the new part is totally different than the old model. The old model has N and L on it. What do they mean? For the new part, do I need to wire capacitor with No 1 and 2 leg on the relay, red wire in the frig with leg 3. And the leg on the overload with blue wire. Please let me know if the wiring is right?
Answer Hello Jeff,
N stands for neutral and L stands for line or hot wire. Without the model number, I can't pull up the wiring diagram so I can't tell you color to terminal and be sure as it would just be a guess. We don't like to guess as this costs the customer time and money. I can tell you with the information you have given that the hot wire will attach to the overload, (small white part with one terminal), and the neutral will hook to the side of the relay, (brown component that goes to the compressor after the overload goes on), that has two terminals. The capacitor will have one wire go to one side of the relay and the other wire to the opposite side of the relay.
My refrigerator made a loud noise, tripped the breaker, emitted a electrical burning smell and stopped cooling. I reset the breaker, the condenser fan runs, the condenser is room temp and the compressor is hot to the touch but does not appear to be running. I suspect the Pt# 5304410951 (compressor kit) will resolve the problem. The capacitor tests ok with an ohm meter with no physical damage. Do you have an opinion one way or the other. Alternative is a new refer. Thanks, Dan
Answer Hi Dan. You are on the right track because the complete compressor change out is a sealed system repair. Depending on the age/ price of the unit , a one time complete repair may be worth it. The cold comp. relay normally reads 4-5 ohms across the 2 terminals. If it rattles then it is definitely bad. Relay kit part # 5304410951. Compressor: The relay starts the compressor for operation. The relay WR07X10025 has a coil in it that is connected in series with the "run" winding in the compressor. When the power is applied, the compressor draws a high current as it is in a "stalled" state. This current is high enough to "pull" the relay in, which connects the "start" winding. This is connected through the capacitor which gives the start winding a "leading" state in electrical terms, which sets the motor rotating. As the motor speeds up, the current drops and is no longer sufficient to hold the relay up, and the motor continues to run without the "start" winding..
The neutral, or cold side of the motor is connected via a small thermal breaker which cuts the motor off if it doesn't start, until the breaker cools down, then it has another go at starting. This is the buzz and "Click" noise you sometimes hear if you turn your fridge off for a short period and then back on. The compressor often wont start if the discharge pressure is too much greater than the suction. Some compressors have a "run" capacitor as well which remains connected to give the motor a higher torque, both for starting and running states. All of this only takes a split second. Thank You.