I asked the question below a few weeks ago. I purchased the part you suggested and after it was installed, the fridge still has the same problem. HELP?
My Electrolux/Frigidaire Side By Side Fridge started beeping constantly. I unplugged it for about 5 minutes, plugged it back in and reset it with the reset button on the control panel. This worked great for 5 minutes, then it started beeping again. Repeated reset process with no luck. Any time I plug it in, it starts beeping immediately (about 1-2 beeps per second). The door switch is working on both the fridge and freezer doors. Is it the contol board (240596701) that has failed?
Asked by Chevyscanfly for Model GHSC239DW0
Chevyscanfly, If your sure, both the refrigerator and the freezer door switches are working properly, and there are no loose wires or connections at the board itself, then yes, the genesis control board will need to be checked or replaced AP4362602.
Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com
Answer Hello Chevyscanfly. In the answer provided, did you check the door switches and the wiring harness? If not, these will cause the issue and should have been checked before the board was replaced. Check both door switches and also do a continuity test on the wiring harness. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My defrost system is not working on my frigidaire frige (PHSC39SSEE3). I changed the thermostat, cold control and the main power board. The heater seems to be good.I checked it and tested 28ohms. I don't know what to do. This model does not use ap5176342. Whats my next step?
Answer Sal., You do have a damper assembly 241518501 but thats not the issue at this point anyway. The "new" control 240596704 deetermines when and how often the refrigerator defrosts. With all tghe control components you've replaced, your best bet, would be to start at the defrost heater ans program a "forced defrost" cycle and check for voltage into the heater(check from heater wire to chassis ground) from the control, if you have the voltage, it will confirm a control and wiring issue, or a possible heater failure. Good Luck
My defrost system is not working. I canged the control unit, the main power board and the thermostat. I checked the heater and get a reading of 28 ohms. I spent a lot of money and have no idea whats wrong. Can you please help?
Answer Hello Sal. If the main power, control board, and the defrost thermostat 5303918214 are new, and the unit does not defrost, you will need to look for bad wiring on the unit. If all of the wiring is good, then the only thing left is the heater 242044113 and you may be getting a false reading. Besure and make sure the wires are good on the unit. Hope this helps.
Temp in my refrigerator rose to 51° and freezer to 12°. There was a clicking sound about every ten 10 seconds. That stoped, then a loud huming sound. On back of unit in the evap fan area there was a small cold and sweat spot. Thoughts?
Answer Hello Al. My thought is that as long as the compressor is good, your inverter has probably failed. So first, you need to test the compressor. The compressor has three terminals on the side of it. To simplify instructions, let's call the terminals 1, 2, and 3. When you test for continuity from 1 to 2, write down the results. The same for 2 to 3 and finally 1 to 3. Looking at the results, two of the results added together should add up to the third result. In other words, if your results were "1", "3", and "2", this is a good compressor electrically as 1 plus 2 is 3. I hope I haven't confused you. If this test results good, the inverter 241577501 requires replacement. Hope this helped in your repair! Have a great day!
i bought the computer board that you gave me the part number to and the defrost still does not come on and there is still no power to the wires. any advise would be helpfull thanks phil
Answer Phil, Have you attempted to program a manual ADC Board test (The actuation code will be a minimum of (5) depressions of the light switch within a (6) second time period with the compressor running). Here are the voltage inputs for you to check :1. Check voltage between E4 and E8. You should have 115 VAC ± 10% as long as refrigerator is connected to house current. 2. If freezer control contacts are closed, there should be 115 VAC ± 10% between E4 and E2. If no voltage is present, check control. 3. If food compartment contacts are closed, there should be 115 VAC ± 10% between E4 and E6. If no voltage is present, check control. 4. With door open and refrigerator light switch contacts closed, there should be 115 VAC ± 10% between E4 and E7. If no voltage is present, check light switch. 1. If voltage is coming from freezer or food compartment control, there should be 115 VAC ± 0% between E4 and E9 to operate evaporator fan motor, unless it is in defrost or within 7 minute delay after defrost. (See NOTE A.)If no voltage is present, replace board. 2. If voltage is coming from freezer control, there should be 115 VAC ± 10% at either E4 or E1, if relay is set in defrost, or E4 to E3, if relay is set for compressor to run.
3. If there is voltage between E4 and E3, compressor and condenser fans should be running. If they are not, check voltage at compressor. If voltage is present, follow procedure to check compressor. If voltage is not present, check wiring between ADC and compressor.
Thanks and Good Luck