My washinging machine is having a couple issues. When the wash cycle finishes, the clothes are still soaking wet. I change the cycle to the drian/spin which would normally drian the water and do another complete spin cycle to get the water out. The machine starts up normally and begins to drian the water, but then it just sits ther for a while and does nothing. After about 15 minutes or so, the drum will turn, very slowly, in one direction, stop, then do the same in the opposite direction. It does this about 4-6 times, then the cycle signal goes off as if it were done, but the clothes are still soaking wet because it never spun the way it would normally. In addition to that, every so often, no matter which actual wash cycle you choose, it will run through and signal that it's done. I will go out a short time later and when I open the door a bunch of water comes pouring out. Also there are times when the machine is empty and has had nothing in it for a day or so, and when I open it to put clothes in, it will be full of water, which then comes pouring out on to the floor. I changed the main control board out, and tried to run the drain/spin cycle to get all the wet towles I had in there rung out so that I can dry them, but it continues to do the same thing. I have only had the board switched out for a day, so I don't know if putting a new board in has helped the water issuse because that only happens every now and again. I would say the water issue happens about every 15 loads or so. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Answer Josh, Based on your post information, you'll need to check a few things. Replace the water inlet valve 134371220. There shouldn't be any water in the tub, when the machine is in the off position. Check the water level pressure switch and hose 134528801 disconnect the hose from the switch and blow in the end of the hose, this should clear any debris or residue from the hose. If the pressure switch doesn't reset to the "empty" position, the washer will not spin. Also check that the door is locked, and remains locked the whole cycle, and the washer drains the water in approximately 60 seconds or less.
Washer starts to fill for 1 second, stops, and spin light comes on.
Answer Hello KP. Check and make sure all the wiring connections are good on the unit. If so, then it sounds like the control board is bad on the unit. Also, make sure none of the buttons are sticking on the unit as well.
No action, no LESs on, no noise, no smell. Previous problem was LEDs would flash and beep for no reason. Now, no nothing.
Aside from check the wiring and make sure that your getting 120 vac to the control board, then it would appear that your control board 137005000 is faulty and would need to be replaced.
GE front load washer, would not spin all other cycles except normal. Now it seems to only work intermittently in that mode as well. Control board issue? It does not attempt to spin. Pump comes on, shuts off, no spinning, a slight tumble and then the machine shuts down.
Answer Hello Al,
This will be one of three things: (1) A poor electrical connection at the motor, speed controller, or main board, (2) A bad Speed controller, (motor control board), or (3) A bad motor. The most common cause would be the speed controller, (motor control board). I would have included part numbers but, the specific part numbers cannot be obtained for sure without a model number off of the units' I.D. tag.
I just replaced the control board because of a E43 fault code. (unit shuts off when turned to normal wash cycles) New control board immediately starts beeping and the right side 5 led lights keep flashing 9 times (with the beeper). I cannot get this to stop, nor will it go into diagnostic mode. Other than a "beep", I get no response from any button pushed. I have checked and rechecked all wires and pins/terminals. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Answer Hello Dave,
There seems to be some controversy over the fault codes. Some are claiming it is the fault of the individual reading the codes and others say it is the fault code list being wrong from the manufacturer. Regardless of who is at fault, the problem seems to be that while the fault code says to replace the control board, the door lock assembly should be tested to make sure it isn't the cause of the issue. If it tests out good, the control board in the bottom of the machine which is referred to by Frigidaire as the speed controller, is the board that should be replaced. As I said, the control board should not be replaced until the cheaper part is tested. Testing it is as follows:
Access the door lock assembly and measure the resistance of the wax motor on the assembly. You will need a resistance meter to test it. If it reads 1500 ohms, give or take 10%, then its fine, and the problem would be the speed controller, (control board in the bottom of the unit).
I get nothing. I have power at the outlet. I don't have any power indication on the front panel.
Answer Hello Denis,
You need to open the main top of the unit and check to see if you have power to the J14 terminals C2,1 and C2,2. There should be 120Vac here as this is where the ac voltage is supplied to the control. If the voltage is there, you will need to replace the main control board 137005000. If it isn't, replace the power cord 134501000.