The freezer keeps things frozen but is not shutting off, the compressor runs 24/7. Likely a bad thermostat?
Answer Hello Bill,
If the compressor is running all the time you should first make sure the hot coils have room to dissipate heat from them. If it is pushed against the wall, it will run all of the time. If you have a good frost pattern and the unit has 3 inches between the hot coils and the wall, you should put a freezer thermometer in it to check the temperature. If it runs all the time but isn't getting any colder, you should look for an air leak around the door. If there is none present, you should check the frost pattern. It should be fairly even from top to bottom. If there is a lot more at the top, you could have a sealed system issue.
How do you change the exterior on the front door temperature control (an explanation of how-to). There does not appear to be any screws holding the control on and I don't want to break it by prying to see if it's behind there to make matters worse.
Answer Unplug the unit before you begin because 120Vac is present behind this assembly. Remove the drip grille and grasp the bottom-most part of the cover. Position yourself with your knee against the freezer door so it will not open and yank sharply out from the door on the bottom of the dispenser cover. This will pop it loose from the bottom. Now raise it up to un-hook it from the top. Now the only thing holding it to the unit will be the wiring. Use your cell phone to take several pictures from different angles to aide in the re-wiring of the assembly.
The fan runs but the compressor will not come on. The thermostat looks corroded. How do I check it?
Answer Hello Jim,
If the thermostat were the issue, the fans wouldn't run. This is most likely the start device 216649303 on the side of the compressor. If you remove it from the compressor and shake it, if it rattles, the internal ceramic disk has shattered and the start device will require replacement.
To test the thermostat, unplug the unit and flip the thermostat to the off position. Using a test meter set to the resistance X1 scale, test from one wire to the other. It should read no contact. Turn the switch to the full blast position. Now the thermostat should read no resistance, (almost the same as touching the meter leads together).
I replaced the temperature control and the fan. The compressor will not turn off on my upright freezer. The temperature is -20°F. What can I do next?
Answer Hello Ron,
The only thing in this unit that turns the compressor on and off is the temperature control 216715200 and the defrost timer. As you didn't mention a frost build-up, I must assume that the new temperature control is either bad or the wires to it are shorted together, either at the switch or at some point before it, bypassing it in the circuit. To test the harness to make sure there is no short, remove one wire from the temperature control and reconnect the unit back to its' power supply. If the compressor comes on, the harness is shorted at some point before it gets in to the temperature control. If not, the new temperature control has to be at fault.
Compressor will not turn off on my upright freezer. Could bad temperature control be the problem?
Answer Hello Edward. Yes, if the temperature control 216715200 is bad, the unit can continue to run without stopping. Try turning the control down to almost the off position. If the unit continues to run, and is freezing properly, you will need to replace the temperature control. Hope this helps.