I have a Kenmore electric stove when I turn on the oven the light flashes preheat the elements will not come on burners work fine. any idea what might be wrong book says something about a oven sensor can you help me.Thanks Bob
It is possible that the issue is with the oven sensor WB21X158. You can test the sensor by doing a resistance check at room temperature. The resistance should read approximately 1090 ohms and if not then the sensor is faulty. If the sensor checks ok then it sounds as though the control board may be the issue.
This is fred again are there two fan motors that blows air in the fridg or does the evaporator fan blow air into the fridg side also?
Answer Fred, the evaporator fan motor 5303918549 circulates the air in the freezer and the damper control 241600902 opens and closes to allow the cold air to flow into the refrigerator section. Thanks.
I see there is a Thermostat part number and a Temperature controller part number for this model refrigerator (although there appears to be a coil attached to the controller which may be a thermostat).
In other customers questions about temperature problems with the refrigertator, the "thermostat" is determined to be the problem, yet the Temp controller part number is listed as the solution.
Which part is the cause of a refrigerator being too warm (even at its coldest setting) even though the freezer works fine?
It may not be the temp control that is causing the issue. The first thing that you will want to check is to see if there is frost building on the coils in the freezer compartment behind the wall. If there is then you have a defrost issue. There will be a light frost on the coils but they should not be impacted with frost. If the coils are impacted with frost then you will want to do a continuity test on the defrost thermostat 5303918214 and the defrost heater 5303918255. If either shows no continuity then replace that part. If they check ok then the defrost control 5303918476 will be the issue. If there is only a even top to bottom frost pattern then it is good and then you will want to check to make sure that the damper 241600902 in the unit is opening. If not opening then the issue would be a faulty damper motor. If the damper is open then you will want to replace the temperature control for the refrigerator compartment. There are 2 temperature controls listed because one is for the freezer and the other for the refrigerator. The refrigerator temperature control 241586503 would be the issue.
Mfg Date: 11/2003
Still trying to figure out what is wrong with my refrigerator......The Evaporator Fan is cycling ON and OFF over and over again. The Fan will eventually stay on, but it takes a while sometimes. Everything seems to be staying the correct temperature, and nothing is freezing, which is good. The simplest, cheapest, and most logical component to replace first was the Evap Fan itself. Well I did that, and there was no change and no improvement.
The Compressor Motor and Fan seem fine. They come on, sound normal, no ON and OFF or loud noises. I don't have a multi-meter yet, and wouldn't exactly know how to go about checking the voltage drop and all that anyway. So, I'm sorta stuck going from component to component, which may get expensive. But I'd like to figure this out, rather than calling the Frigidaire guy.
With that being said, I really don't think it is the Damper Control Assembly, since it is pretty much a mechanical device, and not really a sensor, I'm a correct? What I am getting at is that the Evap Fan is going ON and OFF for a reason, it would seem to me that it is a sensor or electronic component telling the Evap Fan to go ON and OFF. The component most likely to send the signal to the Evap Fan would be what component? The Refrigerator Temperature Controller, which is the thermostat for the refrigerator side. And/or the Defrost Control Board.
The Temp Controller would be the next easiest component to change out, but I don't necessarily want to spend $95 if that isn't the problem. The issue I have with the Defrost Control Board is that the new Wiring Harness is definitely different from the existing harness. Now, if I can simply swap out the Control Board, leaving the old Wiring Harness in place, that would be the easiest and quickest thing to do. Below is the wiring schematic for the 12 pin connector. Can you tell me if a new Control Board will plug right up?
Wiring Schematic on the Defrost Control Board outer case lid:
1. BLK - HOT
3. PUR/WHT - DAMPER OPEN
7. YEL/BLK - FRESH FOOD DOOR
9. WHT/VLT - FRESH FOOD CONTROL
11. RED/WHT - EVAP FAN
2. BRN - DEFROST
4. ORG - FRZR COLD CONTROL
6. RED - COMPRESSOR OUT
8. PINK - DAMPER CLOSED
10. LT BLU - NEUTRAL
12. BLU-B - METAL DEF
I also have pictures of everything, including the connection. The file did not attach to this message, so I would need to email that to you, if you think that would be helpful.
The damper assembly would not cause the fan to pulse on and off. The part that feeds the fan is the defrost control board. The new design control board will not plug into the existing wire harness. They provide the new harness to install this new board and is not difficult to install. The thermostat will send power to the control board which in turn tells the fan to run or not but this could be either of the 2 thermostats as they are both mechanical thermostats. The thing that we would normally find in this issue would be a faulty defrost control causing the fan to either not run at all or be sporadic.