I see there is a Thermostat part number and a Temperature controller part number for this model refrigerator (although there appears to be a coil attached to the controller which may be a thermostat).
In other customers questions about temperature problems with the refrigertator, the "thermostat" is determined to be the problem, yet the Temp controller part number is listed as the solution.
Which part is the cause of a refrigerator being too warm (even at its coldest setting) even though the freezer works fine?
It may not be the temp control that is causing the issue. The first thing that you will want to check is to see if there is frost building on the coils in the freezer compartment behind the wall. If there is then you have a defrost issue. There will be a light frost on the coils but they should not be impacted with frost. If the coils are impacted with frost then you will want to do a continuity test on the defrost thermostat 5303918214 and the defrost heater 5303918255. If either shows no continuity then replace that part. If they check ok then the defrost control 5303918476 will be the issue. If there is only a even top to bottom frost pattern then it is good and then you will want to check to make sure that the damper 241600902 in the unit is opening. If not opening then the issue would be a faulty damper motor. If the damper is open then you will want to replace the temperature control for the refrigerator compartment. There are 2 temperature controls listed because one is for the freezer and the other for the refrigerator. The refrigerator temperature control 241586503 would be the issue.
Mfg Date: 11/2003
Still trying to figure out what is wrong with my refrigerator......The Evaporator Fan is cycling ON and OFF over and over again. The Fan will eventually stay on, but it takes a while sometimes. Everything seems to be staying the correct temperature, and nothing is freezing, which is good. The simplest, cheapest, and most logical component to replace first was the Evap Fan itself. Well I did that, and there was no change and no improvement.
The Compressor Motor and Fan seem fine. They come on, sound normal, no ON and OFF or loud noises. I don't have a multi-meter yet, and wouldn't exactly know how to go about checking the voltage drop and all that anyway. So, I'm sorta stuck going from component to component, which may get expensive. But I'd like to figure this out, rather than calling the Frigidaire guy.
With that being said, I really don't think it is the Damper Control Assembly, since it is pretty much a mechanical device, and not really a sensor, I'm a correct? What I am getting at is that the Evap Fan is going ON and OFF for a reason, it would seem to me that it is a sensor or electronic component telling the Evap Fan to go ON and OFF. The component most likely to send the signal to the Evap Fan would be what component? The Refrigerator Temperature Controller, which is the thermostat for the refrigerator side. And/or the Defrost Control Board.
The Temp Controller would be the next easiest component to change out, but I don't necessarily want to spend $95 if that isn't the problem. The issue I have with the Defrost Control Board is that the new Wiring Harness is definitely different from the existing harness. Now, if I can simply swap out the Control Board, leaving the old Wiring Harness in place, that would be the easiest and quickest thing to do. Below is the wiring schematic for the 12 pin connector. Can you tell me if a new Control Board will plug right up?
Wiring Schematic on the Defrost Control Board outer case lid:
1. BLK - HOT
3. PUR/WHT - DAMPER OPEN
7. YEL/BLK - FRESH FOOD DOOR
9. WHT/VLT - FRESH FOOD CONTROL
11. RED/WHT - EVAP FAN
2. BRN - DEFROST
4. ORG - FRZR COLD CONTROL
6. RED - COMPRESSOR OUT
8. PINK - DAMPER CLOSED
10. LT BLU - NEUTRAL
12. BLU-B - METAL DEF
I also have pictures of everything, including the connection. The file did not attach to this message, so I would need to email that to you, if you think that would be helpful.
The damper assembly would not cause the fan to pulse on and off. The part that feeds the fan is the defrost control board. The new design control board will not plug into the existing wire harness. They provide the new harness to install this new board and is not difficult to install. The thermostat will send power to the control board which in turn tells the fan to run or not but this could be either of the 2 thermostats as they are both mechanical thermostats. The thing that we would normally find in this issue would be a faulty defrost control causing the fan to either not run at all or be sporadic.
Hello, In my Frigidaire FRS26LF8CS3 the water dispenser intermittently stops working. I have checked the inlet valve and it seems fine.
What I noticed is that when the water is not flowing, the freezer is also getting warmer. Which is the case now, the freezer is too warm.
This happened 3 times in the last 10 days. I have been monitoring the temperature in the freezer daily, it fluctuates between 0 and 20F but this morning when the water dispenser was not working the temperature was 30F. I initially thought that the water line was freezing, but I can blow in the line that goes in the door. And since the temperature is getting warmer I do not see how it would freeze. The compressor is running, it is humming and it is warm. Any idea? Thank you very much. Chris
Answer Hello Chris,
This could actually be the evaporator fan motor failing. If this happens, the compressor will continue to run but the air will not be circulated. This means that the cold will simply drop, since cold air is heavier than warm air. Since the water tank is in the bottom of the fresh food section, this will cause the water tank to freeze. If your thermometer is near the top, you would be reading the warmer air temperature. Try removing the crisper drawer and heat the water tank with a hair dryer for 15 minutes. If this makes the unit dispense water, the evaporator fan motor 5303918549 is failing.
My freezer does not keep food frozen. It will freeze food initially but sometimes ice cream will be really soft. Refrigerator will keep food cold and even sometimes if you set it to the coldest setting it will have ice crystals in drinks. You can set the freezer to the coldest setting and it does not make the food any colder. Is this the thermostat, defroster or damper?
You will want to pull the rear cover off the freezer and check for a frost pattern on the evaporator coils. The coils should have a full even frost pattern. Which would mean that the coils should have an even pattern of frost from top to bottom. If the coils are only half frosted then you would have an issue with the sealed system. If the coils have an even frost pattern then the thermostat would most likely be the cause of the issue.
Is there a specific terminal that the wires fasten to on my thermostat?
Answer Hello Keith,
There are only two terminals on the thermostat besides the ground terminal. The two wires fasten to these two terminals. It does not matter which you hook them. This is not a polorized part.
How to get the damper off to put in a new cold control automatic defrost control part 3 241586503.
To get the damper off is kind of tricky since they use a sticky glue. You will need to remove by slowly working a flat blade around the perimeter of the damper in order to remove without damaging the part.