Freezer section works but the refrigerator section is not cooling. What is most likely the problem?
Answer Hello Stanley,
You may want to check your evaporator fan motor 242077701, your defrost bi-metal5303918202, defrost heater242044019, and defrost timer215846604. When you access your evaporator fan motor you should have 120vac across the terminals. If you have proper power then you need to replace fan motor. If the fan motor is operational and you have impacted evaporator coils then you would want to check continuity of bi-metal and heater. If both check good then you would want to replace defrost timer. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Just received a new defrost thermostat and tested the continuity as instructed with the ohm meter and glass of ice water. It did not show continuity - ohm meter reads O.L (overload I guess), does not beep. Ohm meter reads 1.3 Mohms. Could the thermostat be bad right out of the box?
Answer Hello Jon,
The new defrost thermostat could be bad out of the box, but it is more likely that it never got below the required temperature for it to close. It has to be at about 20 degrees before it will close. When it gets cold enough to close, it will read 0 resistance, just like touching your test leads directly together.
My 2 year old refrigerator, freezer is always frosty, almost snow-like inside. What do I need to do to fix it? Fresh food compartment part seems fine.
Answer Hello Liz,
The frost is where humidity has gotten into the unit and, since it's in the freezer, as soon as it condenses, it freezes. I would use a mirror and a flashlight and inspect the door seal all the way around to insure it is making good contact all the way around the door. If it is, check the fresh food door seal. Of course, if there's an air leak around the fresh food door seal, water will condense on the fresh food ceiling. It is possible that if you have an ice maker and it is connected to the hot water supply, the hot water going into the ice maker can be causing this issue.
If you do find an area that isn't contacting the cabinet, you can heat it with a hair dryer to make the seal conform. When it cools back down, it will maintain the shape it was in when it cooled. If there are any tears in the door seal 241872505, it will have to be replaced. The door seals will last the lifetime of the appliance if they are kept clean and dry, so if you ever have a spill, after the spill is cleaned up, clean the door seal also because if the door closed with the spill in place, the door seal will wind up being sticky and this will tear up the seal over time.
My frige is not cooling, but my freezer part is cooling fine.
Answer Hello JC. Check the fan motor in the freezer and make sure it is working properly. If so, look for frost on the back wall. If there is frost, then It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have replaced the defrost timer and the thermostat and have checked that the defrost heater is o.k. The refrigerator still runs all the time and the freezer section as well as the refrigerator is down to zero degrees. What do I do now?
Answer Hi Larry. When a cooling unit continuously runs as if the temperature has not been met, you would think it may be the cold control thermostat or a thermistor out of value depending the model # . First double check if the unit is level front to back and side to side. Then quickly see if the door gasket is not sealing because the door hinges sagging or needing re- shimmed. If the door gasket is ripped and ambient air is incoming, you will see it in the top of the freezer front areas (a clue). Is the evaporator fan turning at normal speed? Part # 5303918549. The freezer air duct plenum control should be at the middle point. Is the condenser coils clogged and boiling the freon? Use a condenser coil brush part #  to clean, along with a shop vac. When you turn the cold control up and back down, does it stop running the compressor at the middle position? I suspect not because of your given information. If it will not shut off, this part # is 5304421256. Lastly, there is a area in the bottom center of the defrost timer. Use a large flat blade screwdriver and rotate the dial. It has a lot of small cam steps that will quickly and very smoothly turn to the next click. Then there is a short "area" where it will stop the compressor from running and turn on the defrost circuit for approx. 25-minutes. Then it will time out of defrost and start compressor run time again. If you cycle past this quickly , you can go back and test again. When you are done, (after defrost completes)remember to start in the first run time step. If the "steps" are hard to click, it also will stick in run time only. So if the timer does not shut off during the manual test, it can be physically shorted needing replaced. Timer part # 215846602. Thank You.
Thermostat has been replaced. Frig temp was staying at 44-47 degrees only. Once changed went to 34 degrees. Just noticed 4 days after now temp went back to 44 degrees. No ice build up in freezer. Should we place defrost timer?
Answer Hello Maryann. Check and make sure the heater reads closed, and if so, you may have a bad defrost timer. Also check and see if the coils inside the freezer are frozen over. If so, it shows you still have a defrost problem. Hope this helps.