The coil freezes up after about a month of refrigeration. When ice is removed it runs great for about another month. We are not sure what part needs replacing. What part do we need?
Answer Hello Tom,
This is going to be one of the defrost circuit components. They are the defrost thermostat 5303917954, the defrost timer 215846602, and defrost heater 5317842502 in that order. The defrost thermostat is the most common part to fail.
I unplugged all the leads to the defroster thermostat and to heater before ordering the part and can't remember what plugs into where...can you help me?
Your defrost thermostat has 2 wire that come off of it and one side it will connect to the heater and one side connects to the blue wire coming out of the cabinet. The other side of the heater will connect to the black wire or dark blue wire.
I bought this refrigerator for a price I should have known something was wrong.
When I plugged it in, the compressor kicked in, ran for 5-10 minutes, and shut down.
I left it plugged in for a couple days, and even put something in the freezer, to make sure it would freeze.
After a couple days, the inside of the refrigerator is cool, not like I think it should. The item I put in the freezer was cold, but not frozen.
I left it for a week, and checked on the freezer again. The item was cold, and the contents was stiff, but not frozen.
What could be causing this
Answer Hello John. Check for an even frost pattern on the coils of the unit. If there is an ice ball or partial frost pattern, you have a restriction or freon issue and will need to replace the unit.
I have an Electorlux model fftr1817lw2. The freezer is cold, but the lower section only gets cool at best.
Answer Hello Angelo,
You will want to check the rear wall of the freezer to check to see if it has heavy frost build up. If so then you have a defrost failure. You can put the unit into a manual defrost to see if the heater and bimetal are working. To do this you will turn the defrost timer until it clicks. The fan and compressor should shut off and defrost heater should come on. If it does not come on then check the continuity of the heater with unit uplugged and the bimetal. If one is bad replace.
MY WASHER PACKED UP CAUSING WATER TO GO UNDER MY FRIDGE, THE FRIDGE RUNS BUT NO COLD AIR IN FREEZER OR FRIDGE AND IT KEEPS CLICKING??
Answer Hello Steve,
You will want to check the start relay on the compressor to make sure that it is not blown. You do this by pulling the relay off compressor with unit unplugged. Shake the relay and if it rattles then you need to replace the relay.
Freezer section works but the refrigerator section is not cooling. What is most likely the problem?
Answer Hello Stanley,
You may want to check your evaporator fan motor 242077701, your defrost bi-metal5303918202, defrost heater242044019, and defrost timer215846604. When you access your evaporator fan motor you should have 120vac across the terminals. If you have proper power then you need to replace fan motor. If the fan motor is operational and you have impacted evaporator coils then you would want to check continuity of bi-metal and heater. If both check good then you would want to replace defrost timer. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Just received a new defrost thermostat and tested the continuity as instructed with the ohm meter and glass of ice water. It did not show continuity - ohm meter reads O.L (overload I guess), does not beep. Ohm meter reads 1.3 Mohms. Could the thermostat be bad right out of the box?
Answer Hello Jon,
The new defrost thermostat could be bad out of the box, but it is more likely that it never got below the required temperature for it to close. It has to be at about 20 degrees before it will close. When it gets cold enough to close, it will read 0 resistance, just like touching your test leads directly together.
My 2 year old refrigerator, freezer is always frosty, almost snow-like inside. What do I need to do to fix it? Fresh food compartment part seems fine.
Answer Hello Liz,
The frost is where humidity has gotten into the unit and, since it's in the freezer, as soon as it condenses, it freezes. I would use a mirror and a flashlight and inspect the door seal all the way around to insure it is making good contact all the way around the door. If it is, check the fresh food door seal. Of course, if there's an air leak around the fresh food door seal, water will condense on the fresh food ceiling. It is possible that if you have an ice maker and it is connected to the hot water supply, the hot water going into the ice maker can be causing this issue.
If you do find an area that isn't contacting the cabinet, you can heat it with a hair dryer to make the seal conform. When it cools back down, it will maintain the shape it was in when it cooled. If there are any tears in the door seal 241872505, it will have to be replaced. The door seals will last the lifetime of the appliance if they are kept clean and dry, so if you ever have a spill, after the spill is cleaned up, clean the door seal also because if the door closed with the spill in place, the door seal will wind up being sticky and this will tear up the seal over time.