Dryer runs but does not dry.
Answer Hello Gary. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
If the thermostat is bad will the dryer still heat up? It now takes twice as long to dry the clothes.
Answer Hello Waterman 2. Yes, It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.
Dryer needs to be set to hi attain heat usually associated with low setting. Vent tube is new and clear- no ventilation issue. Do you think problem is a bad thermostat?
The cycling thermostat on the unit would be the most likely cause for the unit not getting hot enough. Also check to make sure that the heater is getting 120 vac to it and that it is not shorting to ground.
Dryer heats & runs for 3 minutes, then blows the breaker on a 220V line when set on High Heat. On Low Heat, it takes about 8-10 minutes. I've replaced the motor, the timer and all 3 thermostat/limiter switches. Should I try replacing the Heater Element assembly? (Outside repairman sent me down the motor/timer path after I self-diagnosed the limiters/thermostats.)
Answer Tom, You don't need a heater element [AP2107129} you may want to remove the assembly and check to make sure the element isn't loose or expanding and touching the metal case, but the most likely issue is a weak circuit breaker, in the breaker box. If you can get access to a clamp on amp meter, clip the meter around one leg of the line cord you should read 18 to 20 amps with the heater energized. clamp around the other leg and you should draw 2 to 4 amps on the motor. If you're somewhere in that range the problems not in the dryer, it's a weak breaker.
Do i remove the pad on the dryer heating element prior to installation?
The pad that is on the housing is supposed to be there and you will not need to remove it.
HI, My gas dryer is saying the door is open but it is closed. I did replaced the switch and latch which did not solve the problem. I am told this is a common issue with these dryers and I want to make sure I order the correct part this time. Thank You
You will want to check to make sure that there is no issue with the wiring of the unit from the switch to the control board. If the wire is damaged then it will need to be repaired. If the wiring and connections check ok then you will need to replace the main control board.
My husband just replaced the coil on our dryer. Now every time we try to dry our clothes the back of the dryer you can see the coil turning bright orange. Is this normal? We replaced it cause I saw bright orange in the top right and now the whole thing is doing it.
Answer Hello Megan,
This may be an indication of a lack of air flow. You should first check the ducting all the way to the outside for crimps and/or obstructions. If good, check the inside of the unit for a bad blower wheel or an item wrapped around the inside of the blower wheel which would hinder its' ability to move the air.