This forum is truly appreciated! It is great that you folks are sharing your knowledge and making life easier for us, while at the same time teaching us things we do NOT understand!
I have a Frigidaire Front Loader (Model FWT449GFS0) that suddenly quit tumbling & spinning (it pumps water in and out fine) upon turning it on one day. prior to this, it worked great and it has been a trouble-free workhorse--except for a pump replacement years ago.
The timer seems to work. It completes cycles on its own. I hear the clicks it is sending to the various components. All seems normal EXCEPT that the motor does not turn to tumble and spin!
I read with great interest your troubleshooting sequence you kindly provided "Dale F. Model Number fwt449gfsmo" and was about to perform those tests when I discovered that my washer has 4-pin and 9 pin plugs, as opposed to a 6 and 10 on Dale's unit. The 4 pin plug wires are: white, brown, blue/white, white. The 9 pin plug (two empty slots) plug wires are: violet, brown, red, pink/black, blue, yellow, yellow/white.
Is there a troubleshooting sequence like you gave "Dale F." available for my particular model? I cannot locate the schematic diagram (I am the original owner and don't ever remember one, although I did replace the pump once and could of forgotten to replace it back inside the cabinet).
Any assistance would kindly be appreciated.
On the 9 pin connector you will check resistance from the following points to determine whether the motor is the issue or the speed control. Check Pins 1 to 2 for the tach generator and resistance should be 135 ohms, from 3 to 4 which is the stator winding full field and should be 1.26 ohms. From 4 to 9 and should be .37ohms. From 5 to 6 armature winding should be less than 5 ohms. From 8 to 7 the motor thermal protector less than 1 ohm. All these have a variance of 10 percent except the motor thermal and armature winding.
Suddenly today, on rinse and spin cycles, a loud "gear grinding" sound comes from somewhere low on the washer and the tub will not turn. I think it is happening during a sequence of fill-tumble-drain cycles, maybe at the point where the direction of tumble changes. If I force the control knob forward just slightly the noise stops, the tub fills and the next rinse-tumble occurs. It's as though maybe the tub will rinse-tumble in one direction but not another. Maybe a stripped gear somewhere? That's what the alarmingly loud noise sounds like.
Answer Hi Bill. Remove the power and the back cover. Remove the belt and spin the inner basket to see if the rear tub bearing part # 131525500 is free? The tub gasket is part # 134146100. Spin the motor part # 131276200 shaft to see if it is free as well. Has the pulley worn a groove into the top of the rear tub. If so then the rear tub and the inner tub/spider gear assy. part # 131618500 are needing replaced. It will be advantageous to find the supplied tech sheet inside the cabinet to aid you in the diagnosis. It allows you to put the unit in a diagnostic mode which brings up fault codes and tells you which circuit needs assistance. Thank You.
I just purchased the motor for this washer. When I bolted up the motor, I noticed there is not a hole to attach the ground wire.
What should I do?
I called to have the company replace the motor with another. On the motor, there is a little picture for the ground wire,just as on my old motor but, no hole.
What should I hook the ground to?
Answer Hello Barb. Look and see if the ground wire is already going to the ground at another location, completing the circuit. If so, you should be fine with the piggy tailed connector not hooked to the motor 131276200. If not, you will need to attach the wire to the frame of the unit. You can splice the wire and make it longer if needed to reach ground. The motor is already internaly grounded.
Machine won't tumble or spin. Pump runs fine.1) How can I test the Door lock switch to make sure it's working? I have an Ohm/Voltage meter. 2) How can I test the motor with meter? I tried the wiring diagram and get no continuity for the 5&6 positions on the motor connector which says its for the Armature and should read less than 5 ohms.
Answer Hi Mike. If the motor windings do not ohm out at the 5 and 6 positions like your wiring diagram shows, then the new motor is part # 131276200. Remember it can be about 10 % leeway. It sounds like your door lock assembly part # 131763202 is not working correctly to allow proper operation. Shut off your circuit breaker before you touch anything. Also make sure your fill hoses and water valve screens are not clogged, as the water valve part # is .
I would like to know how to check the ptc. switch and where I can down load a service manual?
Answer Hello Dale. The PTC. switch on the dispenser should read closed when the drawer is closed and read open when the drawer is open. Hope this helps.
I have done all the check as per the wiring diagram every thing checks ok. I have replaced the door switch, the timer, the speed control board and the motor. I have not been able to get this washer to spin in any cycle. It fills and tumble in only one direction during wash, It pumps out, I have check the psi switch it says it good when tested manually. can the ptc. switch at the soap dish cause this problem. What voltage should I have at the switch, can I check this switch with a volt meter. It also tumble 2 time just before it pump out in the last of the spin cycle. Is there a service manual on line Thank you Dale
Answer Hello Dale. Here are some test to perform. Hope this helps. Set timer to spin. Disconnect the 6 and 10 pin plugs from the speed control board. Measure voltage drop between pin 5 of the 6 pin plug and pins 1, 2, 6, 9, & 10 of the 10 pin plug. If any voltage readings beside 120 VAC between pin 5 to 6 and 9, and less than 50 between pin 5 to pins 1,2 & 10. You will have a defective timer. If between pin 5 to pins 6 &9 reads 120 VAC and between pin 5 to pins 1, 2, & 10 read less than 50 VAC you have a bad speed control board. Since both of these are new, you will need to run these test and see if there is a wiring harness issue with the machine. Also, look for loose connections, or bad connectors inside the plugs. Hope this helps.