replaced ignitor and still no glow and no oven flames. tested to see if voltage was coming into igniter and nothing. what do u think, thanks jeff
Answer Jeff, With no voltage (120 VAC) to the igniter, you would need to check for a broken Yellow wire, between the igniter and the ERC/Clock or a faulty relay on the ERC/Clock 316455410 with the range programmed for a bake mode and a temperature, there should be 120 VAC on the yellow wire to chassis ground in a bake mode.
When I turn on my oven the ingntor glows but
the oven does not turn on for a while. Then you will smell gas.
Do you know what this could be?
Answer Hello Eric. Test for 3.2-3.6 volts AC at the gas safety valve with the igniter turned on. If the voltage is there, you have a bad safety valve. If the voltage is low, you have a weak igniter and the igniter will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
There is a faint odor of propane inside the oven when the thermostat is off. I checked for leaks at all connections and didnt find any ???
Answer Hello Thomas,
If you are having an odor of propane inside unit then more than likely you have a faulty safety valve that is not closing fully.
i recently replaced an ignitor that no longer worked, did.t glow or even attempt to. noticed a spot where the ignitor wire had touched the metal frame and left a small burn mark. after putti.g in the new ignitor my oven will not turn off, it will go down to short small blue flames but never off. tried unplugging it and it wont turn off untill you close propane valve.
Answer Adam, You're on track, When the igniter wire shorted to ground, There was enough voltage to cause the bi metal switch, inside the safety valve, to warp, and it won't close completely. Repalcing the safety valve is the next step. Just Remember, Remove Power to the stove, before you start working on it.