Right front burner, ceramic cook top. Burner would not turn down. Replaced with the infinite switch mentioned, but the burner still stays on high. I then switched the H wires but the burner still remained on high. Not sure what to do. Is the P terminal even needed?
Answer Troy, A model number would be a good idea and a lot more helpful, and we could be more precise with the information you need. The "P" terminal on the switch isn't really needed, it is internally bussed in the switch and supplies power to the burner indicator light when the burner is on, to inform you the customer that the burner is on. There should be five(5) wires at the switch: L1(black wire) power into switch L2(red) power into switch, H1 power out to element, H2 power out the other side of element, "P" power out to indicator light. The H2 circuit in the switch "cycles" on and off and controls the heat of the element, depending on the control setting. If you have a new switch, and it is wired correctly, then you will need to check for a shorted element or wire causing the element to remain on the high setting and not "cycle". Without a model number and or the wiring diagram it's a little difficult to advise you properly and efficiently.
Right front burner quit.
Answer Hello Stephen. You need to test and see if the switch is bad or if the element is bad in the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Please provide wiring diagram for switch #AP4362288.
Answer Hello Tiffany,
I'm sorry but a wiring diagram cannot be posted in this format. We could send it as an attachment but it will not post in here. Please let us know if we can provide you with any other assistance.
I replaced the right front burner switch with 318293825 and not the eye gets super hot but does not turn red and will not turn off. The other eyes are working fine. What is causing this?
Answer Cynthia, You most likely have a "crossed" wire on the new switch, some replacement parts may have the terminals located in a different position or location. What was the original issue, and do you have a model number so we can assist you with the correct part and wiring.
If one switch fails [right front large burner} does the whole cook top stop working? I turned on one burner, heard a loud pop, no burners are working now. To repair this, just replace that one burner switch?
Answer Hello Edward,
The cook top will have its' own power supply that splits off at the terminal block. If you unplug the unit and raise the top, you can follow the wiring back down to the terminal block. There should be a molex connector near the back of the cook top that could contain the problem. If it is in it, you will see the discoloration. This is the kind of issue you will just have to look for. If there was a loud pop, the spot where the wiring shorted should be obvious.
My old part number (318369610) has two wires attached to L1. A blue and a black wire. The replacement part I recieved from you 318293825 has only one prong at L1. I moved the black to L1 per a previous question. Where do I attach the blue cable on the new switch? Unfortunately, I can't find a wiring diagram attached to my current cooktop.
Thanks in advance
Answer Hi Brian. There is a supplied wiring diagram folded in behind the controls or to the one side of storage drawer. We will try our best. Part Number: 318293825 Switch, Surface Element - Used for the large surface element. New screws are needed to replace the switch, part number is 5303323134. L1= blk #6 wire. Red = P1 terminal from red L-2 feed wire. H1 = brn. or gray. H2- brn or gry. Find your diagram as it will definitely take precedence over this effort. The diagram is just a little fuzzy when exploded view. Thank You.
Our cooktop had the same problem as others with the front right burner not turning off. I ordered and received the proper part and screws and easily replaced the switch. One minor issue was that the "Off" position is now at the 3:00 position, rather than 12:00 as the other controls are. The major issue is that when turning the power and the control back on, there was a "pop" and the circuit breaker tripped. Before turning the bottom right burner on, I tested the others, which worked fine. Did I kill the stovetop or does the fact that a new control did not work mean there is something else wrong? The terminals are slightly different than the original part, but I matched up as well as possible (I don't have the original wiring diagram). Thanks.
Answer Hi Gary. Are you referring to the rt. front burner ? The manufactures will send the infinite switch shaft pushed in , engaged position. It will give the wrong positioning and mis guide you. Remove the power and make sure the knob aligns in -off- position. The correct part number for the large element switch is 318293825. You will have to purchase new screws 5303323134 with the updated switch, as the old screws will damage the new switch. Under the unit in a sealed plastic bag is the wiring diagram for your unit. The regular element wiring is the L-1 blk. wire goes to the L-1 at the switch. One double Yellow from H1 to the element and the other going to the surface light indicator. L-2 has a red wire and the H-2 has a white wire going to the limiter. Make sure that your wires do not touch any others as they will short out and trip breakers on purpose. Thank You.