Unit was running OK for a few days, then the temperature in both freezer and fresh food sections became warm. If I unplug the unit and/or turn the freezer control off then back on, it would work again for a few days, then get warm again. So I cleaned the condenser coils, tested the door seals, replaced the bi-metal switch, tested the defrost heater and it works. Now the temperature in the fresh food section is good, about 40°F. Temperature in freezer is about 10°F at the top (near ice maker) and -20 deg F at bottom. Compressor, condenser fan, and evaporator fan run constantly. I did hear them kick off for a bit but now running again constantly. Freezer and fresh food compartments near empty. Are the temperatures in the freezer normal? I did order the defrost timer, but have not replaced it. Can it be the defrost timer or temperature controller or something else? Thanks, Michael
Answer Hello Michael,
The temperature control 5303300027 could be an issue since discontinuing power and reconnecting makes the unit cool back down. The lower part of the sections being colder than the top indicates an air circulation issue. Possibly the evaporator fan motor 5303299165 has failed. This sounds like you have two issues at once.
What is the tiny screw to the left of the knob on a temperature control for frs24ged refridge?
Answer Hello Bob. That is a mounting screw 5304406597. That part has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part.
On a old frigidare one door (not auto defrost) do the temp controls all common. There is no model # & the ref goes on for 10 seconds & shuts off to cycle again.
You will want to check the Start relay on the unit. When you pull the start relay off you can shake it and if it rattles you will want to replace the relay. This would be an indication that the relay is bad.
My fridge is warm the freezer is cold, the fan is running in the freezer. The door is open where the sensor is in the fridge control knob. What could it b? The temperature control in freezer? Or the fan?
If the damper is open, the fan running and the freezer temperature ok then you will want to check to see if you are having a defrost issue. You may see frost on the back wall of the freezer. If you do not then pull the rear cover of the freezer compartment and check to see if the evaporator coils are impacted with ice. If it is then you will need to check the continuity of the defrost bimetal 5303917954 and the defrost heater 218169802. If either one of the parts does not show continuity then replace that part. If both have continuity then you would need a new defrost timer 215846602.
Freezer coils freeze solid. Will not defrost coils. Has new defroster heater, timer, and freezer thermostat.
Also in the wiring diagram it shows a cold cont. What is this and could this be the trouble?
Answer Hello R Brown. No, it is not the temperature control. There has to be a wiring issue if the heater, thermostat, and timer are all new and the unit does not defrost. This is the complete defrost cycle components.
Can you explain why the freezer section is cold but the refrigerator section is not? Everything placed there do not get cold.
Answer Hello Sansukai. Check for frost on the back wall inside the freezer. If there is some there, It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
The compressor and fans stopped running on my refrigerator after running for a half an hour after being off for several months. When the refrigerator did run, it would take a long time to cool down and the evaporator coil in the freezer would ice up. Could the defrost timer be the problem here?
Answer Hello Mike. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater 218169802 and the defrost thermostat 5303917954. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer 215846602. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My fridge keeps getting warm, if I unplug it for a day, then plug it back in it gets cold then in 3-4 days it is warm again 80-85 degrees.
Answer Hi John. Are there any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer? If so then change the defrost thermostat part # 5303917954. The defrost heater is part # 218169802. Timer is part 215846602. Is the evaporator fan running. Part # is 5303917278. Thank you.