(Please feel free to laugh or groan, as you see fit.)
Making nachos, pan under the broiler, attention wanders...
Fire in oven, nachos charcoal, oven messy. Used self-cleaning function, all good...except 2 of the oven indicator lights (oven on, preheat) do not work; the door locked light functions just fine as does the temp display and other indicator lights. Don't know if temp is accurate, as I don't have an oven thermometer. Top element works on both hi and lo settings, as does lower element.
Seems like the sensor probably needs to be replaced, no? Or at least that's the place to start?
The oven sensor may indeed be faulty and can be tested by doing a resistance check on it and the reading at room temp should be 1090 ohms. With the oven on and preheat lights not working it could be a bad control board that is causing this issue. The starting point would be the oven sensor though.
Oven wall unit.....won't heat past 315 degrees. Top element working fine turn to broil works fine bottom element not working bought new element still not working checked wire connections in back. Connections good no discolorations. I am lost I read diagram top element and bottom one are tied together in some fashion. what now?
The bake and broil are tied in together by the L2 circuit but in order for either of them to operate the relay in the control must work properly. There are individual relays for both, a bake and broil. If the bake relay has failed the broil will continue to work but the bake element will not. This relay would be part of the oven control board 318010700. Unfortunately this control board has been discontinued by the manufacturer with no replacement available.
I have a glasstop Frigidaire stove, model number fefl68gma. The terminal block on the left side, black wire, has melted away from the block. From what I have been reading, there must have been a loose connection. My terminal block looks different than the one pictured for my replacement part. I had six places for wires and yours only has 3. Would it be ok to connect the wires from the plug to these as well? They would have a tighter connection. They were connected with screws on my terminal block, and I tried to tighten them as tight as I could, however, they seemed like they were to long or something. They would not tighten down all the way. What would you suggest I do? None of my plug wires are melted. Would you recommend I get a new one? I guess you're referring to them as pigtails. It just has a little melted plastic on it. Could I sand that off? Please help!
The terminals will not tighten up because the heat produced by the loose connection has ruined the threads on the terminal block screws. The terminal block will have to be replaced. The difference in the old terminal block and the new one is not an issue. Just attach the wires on the left connections to the single left terminal, the wires to the center connections to the single center terminal, and the same for the right. Just be sure not to cross any of the wires. The important part of the power cord connection is that the discoloration should be sanded away to expose shiny metal and the crimp connection to the eyelet should not be too brittle. If it is so brittle that the wires are cracking when it bends, the power cord, (pigtail), should be replaced to prevent the creation of a fire hazard.
As another note, you will notice that the new terminal block comes with six nuts and six washers. When you get the terminal block mounted, you put the wires from the unit on the terminal block and then the flat washer then the first nut. The pigtail is then attached to the terminal block with the "curved" washer and second nut. This is how Underwriters' Laboratory has approved the installation of the cord. This way, if the cord, (pigtail), has to be replaced again in the future, the units' wiring does not have to be removed and a wire cannot slip off unnoticed. Only the pigtail wires can come off with the first nuts' removal.
The top burners on my Kenmore stove work fine, but the control panel does not light up and the oven does not work ?
Answer Hi Sharon. You may be experiencing a terminal block issue or a loose white neutral wire connection. Remove power. Remove the cord cover. Then feel the wires at the terminal block and follow the instructions labeled on the back. There are 3 wires that are black (L 1), white (neutral) and red (L 2). Between the outer 2 wires, the black and the red wires, you need to have close as possible to 240 vac. Now between the middle white wire , neutral you need to have as close as 120 vac as possible. If the terminal block nuts are loose, they will create a voltage supply loss to the clock (open neutral). Or the clock is bad. If it does not show the L.E.D. readouts, the clock is part # 316207511. It may also have a open circuit that supplies the elements proper voltage. Thank You.
The oven heats up slow,and does not heat up past 260 to 280 degrees. The broiler is fine,as is the stove top. Clock/timer seem ok too. What could be causing the oven temp not to rise past 280? Thanks for your help!
Answer Chris, You're on the right track, Check the connections and wires on the bake element, and the element condition, no bubbles, grease spots or chips etc. If alls OK, you may want to consider an oven temp. sensor 316134900, it could be faulty and out of the proepr resistance range. Good Luck and Thanks
Broil and bake elements do not work. Stove top works fine but oven does not heat up.
Answer Courtney, Your first step should be to unplug the power cord or turn the power off the the range. Move the stove out, and Remove both the upper and lower back panels of the range, and check the wires from the electronis control to the oven elements for breaks,damage, or loose connections. With the top burners working, you have 240 VAC to the range, so you'd have to have a bad wire or bad control for both elements not to operate in the oven. Good Luck and Thanks