I have a glasstop Frigidaire stove, model number fefl68gma. The terminal block on the left side, black wire, has melted away from the block. From what I have been reading, there must have been a loose connection. My terminal block looks different than the one pictured for my replacement part. I had six places for wires and yours only has 3. Would it be ok to connect the wires from the plug to these as well? They would have a tighter connection. They were connected with screws on my terminal block, and I tried to tighten them as tight as I could, however, they seemed like they were to long or something. They would not tighten down all the way. What would you suggest I do? None of my plug wires are melted. Would you recommend I get a new one? I guess you're referring to them as pigtails. It just has a little melted plastic on it. Could I sand that off? Please help!
The terminals will not tighten up because the heat produced by the loose connection has ruined the threads on the terminal block screws. The terminal block will have to be replaced. The difference in the old terminal block and the new one is not an issue. Just attach the wires on the left connections to the single left terminal, the wires to the center connections to the single center terminal, and the same for the right. Just be sure not to cross any of the wires. The important part of the power cord connection is that the discoloration should be sanded away to expose shiny metal and the crimp connection to the eyelet should not be too brittle. If it is so brittle that the wires are cracking when it bends, the power cord, (pigtail), should be replaced to prevent the creation of a fire hazard.
As another note, you will notice that the new terminal block comes with six nuts and six washers. When you get the terminal block mounted, you put the wires from the unit on the terminal block and then the flat washer then the first nut. The pigtail is then attached to the terminal block with the "curved" washer and second nut. This is how Underwriters' Laboratory has approved the installation of the cord. This way, if the cord, (pigtail), has to be replaced again in the future, the units' wiring does not have to be removed and a wire cannot slip off unnoticed. Only the pigtail wires can come off with the first nuts' removal.
The top burners on my Kenmore stove work fine, but the control panel does not light up and the oven does not work ?
Answer Hi Sharon. You may be experiencing a terminal block issue or a loose white neutral wire connection. Remove power. Remove the cord cover. Then feel the wires at the terminal block and follow the instructions labeled on the back. There are 3 wires that are black (L 1), white (neutral) and red (L 2). Between the outer 2 wires, the black and the red wires, you need to have close as possible to 240 vac. Now between the middle white wire , neutral you need to have as close as 120 vac as possible. If the terminal block nuts are loose, they will create a voltage supply loss to the clock (open neutral). Or the clock is bad. If it does not show the L.E.D. readouts, the clock is part # 316207511. It may also have a open circuit that supplies the elements proper voltage. Thank You.
The oven heats up slow,and does not heat up past 260 to 280 degrees. The broiler is fine,as is the stove top. Clock/timer seem ok too. What could be causing the oven temp not to rise past 280? Thanks for your help!
Answer Chris, You're on the right track, Check the connections and wires on the bake element, and the element condition, no bubbles, grease spots or chips etc. If alls OK, you may want to consider an oven temp. sensor 316134900, it could be faulty and out of the proepr resistance range. Good Luck and Thanks
Broil and bake elements do not work. Stove top works fine but oven does not heat up.
Answer Courtney, Your first step should be to unplug the power cord or turn the power off the the range. Move the stove out, and Remove both the upper and lower back panels of the range, and check the wires from the electronis control to the oven elements for breaks,damage, or loose connections. With the top burners working, you have 240 VAC to the range, so you'd have to have a bad wire or bad control for both elements not to operate in the oven. Good Luck and Thanks
We moved the Kenmore stove. When we put it back in place, one part of the three part connection in the terminal shorted and melted. I often could smell something hot/melting when using the oven. We have ordered the replacement. The breaker on the circuit board for the house did not trip. Will replacing the terminal make the stove safe to use or are there other things to cause concern?
Answer Hi Bj. The terminal block is part # . Hook up as per wiring diagram found behind the drawer. There is also a pictorial diagram on the back wall of the stove. The 2 - outer wires need to be hooked to the 2- outer screws on the terminal block.(L-1 and L-2). The middle wire (neutral) to the middle screw on the terminal block. They need to be tight "almost" to the point of breakage using the wire clamp onto the back wall. This will insure the wire does not get pulled out from the back and also insure he 240vac wire is not pinched to short in the future. After you install the wire cord and clamp, and you still have issues then you should unplug the unit and turn the breaker back on. If the breaker doesn't trip, then chances are the house supply is OK. Then take the back completely off and the back panel cover off to further inspect for damage at the clock/controls. Usually it will blow open the clock assy. part # 316557106. Thank you.
Niether oven element or broil element gets hot. The stovetop works fine clock works and oven light works.
Answer Hello Chris. First test at the terminal block and make sure there is 240 volts coming to the range. If so, you will want to test and see if there is power coming from the clock assembly 316455400 to the elements when turned on. If not, you will need to replace the clock assembly. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps.http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html