How do I test the Thermal fuse with an ohmmeter as there are 4 terminals?
Answer Hello Richard. 131298300 is not the thermal fuse. It is the cycling thermostat. The 2 large terminals should read closed for continuity and the two small should show resistance. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
My electric clothes dryer is getting the clothes to hot to touch.
Answer Hello Joe,
Since appliance parts are listed by model and the wiring configurations are different from model to model, I cannot give a complete diagnosis. This can be a stuck centrifugal switch in the motor, a shorted heating element, or a shorted harness. Re-post including your model number for a more accurate diagnosis.
My dryer only works on one heat temperature no matter what you set it on.
Answer Hello Joe,
Check the cycling thermostat resistance, (small terminals), for 28K ohms of resistance. If the resistance is off by more than 10%, replace the cycling thermostat.
This dryer stops before cycle completes leaving a dryer full of wet clothes. Sometimes it seems to run hot. Sometimes it runs properly.
Answer Hello P.C.,
This sounds like an exhaust duct issue. Check the duct for crimps and/or clogs. I have found many vent hoods outside of the home with a screen. This screen catches lint and stops up. If no problems are found, flip the breaker off and on to see if it feels normal. Unplug the unit and check the prongs on the plug for burned spots. If there are burned spots, the cord and the wall receptacle will need to be replaced. The only other thing that can cause this is overloading the machine.
My dryer quit heating. What part do you think I need?
Answer Hello Billie. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I checked every fuse switch and wire with multi meter. The only reading that did not show contunity was the vent thermostat. The two steel outside terminals showed contunity but the two brass terminals showed no continuity. Would this be my problem and should the brass terminals register a reading would this prevent the dryer from starting? Thanks for any help.
Answer Hi. The cycling thermostat part # 131298300 will only cycle the temperature limits safely. The inner 2- smaller wire connections are a internal biased resistor that has to be within certain range 6-14k ohms. If not then replace it as well. On top of the heater / bulk head area is a thermal limiter part # 134120900 that will open the current to the motor. Temporarily place these two together with black tape just as a quick motor test. Make sure you do have the proper 240/ 120 vac at the terminal block and all wires are tight. If you have 120 vac to the motor at the white wire (M4) and the Gray wire (M6) then it should run. If not then the motor is part # 131560100. Thank You.
Sir's I think I found the problem. I sent in a question earlier, thanks for answering. The vent thermostat could be why the dryer wont run. I used a multi meter on the two outside terminals they registered. I then used it on the two inside terminals, nothing registered. Is the thermostat blown? Could this be why the dryer will not start? I checked all switches, on-start switch, door switch, all the buttons, heating element, etc. All registered, this was the only one that did not. Thank you, John
Answer John, you are correct, you should have continuity on all of the thermostats and the thermal fuse. If any have an open circuit, they need to be replaced. Hope this helps!