The dryer heats for approx 3 min and then the high limit cuts out for about 2 min. It continues this cycle. I replaced the high limit switch suspecting that it was cutting out improperly but no change in operation. The element is in good shape as has not grounded out to the frame. I have now removed the thermostat hoping that is the problem. Tested it on a frying pan and it got very hot before it opened, but it did open? There was also a smaller nickel sized contact which face the back of the machine? Can you offer any other clues?
Answer Jesse, The smaller nickel sized thermostat should be the "thermal limiter" It is a "one shot" thermostat, if it "opens" it doesn't reset, and the dryer won't operate until it is repalced. If the hi limit thermostat is opening, and you've replaced it, your first check needs to be an air flow issue, Have you checked the exhaust vent pipes and vent hood for clogs, restrictions and kinks ? You'll also want to check the lint filter, blower housing, and blower wheel for lint, restrictions and air leaks. You may also have a "sticky" control thermostat, nort opening at the preset temperature(145-155 dgrs.) and allowing the dryer to heat to the hi limit temperature.
Recently dryer seems on high heat regardless of setting . Good airflow from vent . Drum is turning and no unusual noises Back of dryer--high middle- is too hot to touch and paint looks heat discolored . Thanks for the help .
You will want to check the air flow to the outside of home and make sure that there is no clog. If there is a clog it will cause overtemps in the unit. If the venting checks ok then you would need a new cycling thermostat .
So if the high limit is reading closed with no power to it, then it must be my timer?
Answer Hello Slam. No, if the high limit is reading closed, it can start to break down under load conditions and cause the unit to fail in heating properly. That is why it was suggested to test when running and see if it continues to feed AC power and break AC power. This is dangerous due to a live power test and you need to use caution here. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
"Hello Slam. That sounds like a control board issue if the thermostat are testing closed. It sounds like the relay on the control board is bad and you will need to replace the board in the unit."
May I have an item number for said control board?
Also, I took off the high limit thermostat/fuse (T-O-D60T21). It rattles on the inside when shaken, if that matters.
Answer Hello Slam. Lets test the high limit. Your model does not use the board, so either the timer or the temperature switch will be the culprit. To test the high limit. Use an meter and see when it open and breaks voltage to the heater. The see if it closes and the voltage returns. If not, disconnect the power and test for continuity and see if it reads closed. If so, high limit is bad and needs replaced. If it is opening and closing properly, either the timer, or temperature switch is bad and needs to be replaced on the unit.
My Frigidaire Gallery dryer quit drying a week or so back. The motor and timer works but it quit producing heat. I assumed it was the element so I ordered a new element and installed it. Afer connecting everyting and plugging it back up, I turned it on to test it. It heated up for about 20-30 seconds and then stopped heating. The motor and timer continued to run. I let it sit for a few minutes and then tried it again with the door open, holding the door switch. I saw the element begin to glow and get brighter; however, after 20-30 seconds the element went dark. A clicking sound was heard just before the element went off. I turned the dryer off and let it sit for a few minutes and tried again, getting the same result. I pulled the high limit fuse/thermostat (T-O-D60T21), since it seemed to be the next thing in line to check, and tested it. It tests as closed with my meter, but you can shake it and hear light rattling inside. Is this my problem, could this be my problem, or is there other/another possibility(ies)? Help me, please!
Answer Hello. The dryer should cycle the heater on and off, that is normal. Try running the dryer for 15 minutes and see if the heater cycles on and off. If so, the unit is good. If it didnt cycle, you would have a fire hazzard.