The ice box is getting cold along the walls and bottom of the unit however the racks are not getting cold. Trying to figure if I have a problem or not.
Answer Hello Rommel,
It is not abnormal for the shelving to not feel cold but the walls to be cold due to larger surface area. The way to find out if it is cooling properly is to put a thermometer in the middle of unit and see what the temp is. You should be at about 0 degrees plus or minus 5.
Not cooling. Alarm going off ?
Answer Hi. Is there any frost on the back wall of the freezer? Advance the defrost timer part # 297318010 in the back of the lower cabinet to the Ist heavy click. Timer contacts close between contacts 2 and 4 to send the voltage to the heater. This activates the defrost heater through the normally closed defrost thermostat part # 297216600. If the heater part # 216608500 does not come on then remove the back wall of the freezer and test for 120 vac on one of the incoming defrost thermostat leads -to-ground. If it is there and not out of the other side lead of the thermostat then it is not closed (in temperatures below 14°). If so then ohm out the heater for closed continuity as it need to have resistance value of 11-18 ohms. If the timer turns hard then replace it. It turns very easy in small increments and quickly passes from the first heavy click(defrost begins), to the last 2nd heavy click -terminating 25 minutes defrost time length. This is a usual NO-COOL. Make sure the compressor runs as the temperature is in the mid position. Thank You.
Defrost timer AP5306796, how long does it stay in defrost?
Answer Hello Richard. There is no preset time for the defrost cycle. Usually the defrost cycle is 15 to 30 minutes on the timer 297318010.
I have purchased a new defrost timer PN:297318010. I thought I would test it before I installed it, but there was infinite resistance across all terminals at both positions on the advance knob. Does it have to have power applied to it before it will test properly?
Answer M, No you do not need to apply 120 VAC to the timer to activate the circuits. You should not read closed circuits on all the terminals at the same time here's a quick easy test. Term.1 (blu) to term. 3 (wht) should have resistance or "closed" circuit at all times, this is the timer motor. Term.1 (blu) to term. 4 (yell) will have a closed circuit when the timer is in the cooling mode(longest increment) When the timer advances, is advanced into the defrost mode(shorter increment), term. 1 (blu) and term.2 (orng) is "closed, to the defrost heater / thermostat, and term 1 (blu) to term 4 (yel) opens. Blue to yellow and blue to orange should not have "closed circuits at the same time. Make sure you label and disconnect the wire harness from the timer before you test the circuits. Thanks
I asked the previous question about the condensation, I negelected to indicate that enough forms that it is pooling on the floor underneath the compressor.
Answer Hello D Thompson. You will need to get a HVAC technician to check the level of freon in the unit. You may have a restriction or overcharge in the sealed system. Hope this helps.
I have condensation forming on an insulated copper line from the compressor, it doesnt form all the time, could a defrost timer cause this?
Answer Hello D. Thompson. No, this is a slight overcharge of freon causing the frosting. As long as it clears off the line and does not freeze solid, it should be fine. Hope this helps.