My hotpoint refrig will not freeze. The fan and thermostat seem to be working.
Answer Hello Margie. If the unit is cooling, but not freezing, you will need to look for a full frost pattern across the evaporator coils in the unit. If it is not fully frosted over, you have a sealed system issue and will need an HVAC tech to repair the unit.
I hooked my fridge to a generator and it worked for a couple of days then it quit. I spoke to a person named april and said that a relay should fix me up. Then I asked if there was anyway to test the compressor motor but my multi meter is reading OL. Before I hook it up to anything what do I do and how?
Answer Hello Jason,
If you set your multi-meter to ohms and you are getting OL across the compressor terminals the you have an open line and need a new compressor. You should have an ohm reading. Another thing that you would want to check is the wires coming to the start relay to ensure you are getting power to the compressor. If nothing at all is running then you may have a defrost timer issue WR9X483. You can turn the timer which is located in the refrigerator compartment behind controls.
I just ordered the part above and when I am installing it, I am having trouble deciding which wire, black or orange, go into which port. I see that one port has a blue paint marking and the other port has a number 2 next to it. where do I plug each cord?
Answer Hello Owen,
Without the model number it's kind of hard to say for sure, but looking at some other models that use this part, I would say that the black wire plugs into the hole by the blue dot. The orange goes to the hole marked 2. I checked 5 different models and they all wire this way.
There's power to the frig, but not running. No inside lights, nothing, is there a fuse in line?
Answer Hello Joe. See if there is power coming to the main control board WR55X10942. If so, then you will need to replace the control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
This part started to melt so I did as you advised another Dan to pull this part and check the triangle pins on compressor. My Ohm readings are 10.3 for bottom two pins. When I check them individually with the top I get 4.1 and 6.3. Does that mean the compressor is bad?
Answer HI Dan. The pin readings on the compressor part # WR87X10211, are correct. You need to test them individually from each bottom pin lt and rt. to the top center pin as described. These readings added together will get the total reading between the 2- on the bottom. So, by your measurements they are 10.4 ohms. If the bottom 2 read within 10% of this then the compressor is fine as long as any terminal is not shorted to comp. ground. If the windings are shorted to the casing then you need another one. Rattle the compressor start/run relay part # WR09X10107. If it rattles then the ptc disk internally has separated and needs to be replaced. Coled the relay opposing 2-terminals should read close to 5-6 ohms. + or - 10 %. Thank You.
Can you test this with an ohm meter to validate it is still good. If the Overload/PTC goes out, will it cause the mother board to go out as well?
Answer Hello Tim. You will need to test and see if your getting the proper voltage to the compressor. If the voltage is low, you will need to change the control board WR55X10942. Hope this helps.