I just cleaned my oven. After cleaning I went to turn the oven on and all I got was the light blinking. The oven wouldn't work, but if I turn the knob to clean it fired right up. Why would the clean setting work but not the broiler or the bake settings?
Answer Hello Perry,
The 900°F to 1100°F produced by the self clean cycle has most likely damaged the electronic control board WB27K10140. As per the manufacturer, if this control is replaced, a new knob will have to be ordered since the old knob will not fit the new control. For black knob order WB03K10113 and for white WB03K10112.
I have a Hotpoint gas oven, top burners work fine but my oven and broiler will not heat or come on at all. Control knob light comes on but nothing works. Could this be the control panel has gone out.
The issue would most likely be in the gas valve and you will want to test for 3.2-3.6 amps at the gas safety valve with the igniter turned on. If the voltage is there, you have a bad safety valve. If the voltage is low, you have a weak igniter and the igniter will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have no oven or broiler, Hotpoint RGB745BEA2AD. Both ignitors, oven temp. sensor, and gas safety ohm out. I am leaning toward a control board, however I just read something about a "weak" ignitor. What does Appliancepartspros.com think about the issue? Thank You
Answer Hi Jeff. Make sure you have 120 vac out from the BA (bake) relay and the BR (broil) relays on the board as you ask for each command. If the board does not have output then replace the control board part # WB27K10140. Make sure all connections to the igniters are clean and tight. A weak igniter may ohm ok, but have a minute crack too small to see that opens during heating. The igniters crack in the middle. Bake igniter is part # WB2X9154. The broil igniter is part # WB2X9154. Make sure you have 120 vac to the Safety valve part # WB19K14. If you have 120 vac at the safety valve and it does not open then replace the valve. Remove one wire from the terminal of the safety valve and ohm it out. It should read 1 ohm. Make sure it is not open and cannot open the gas valve. Measure the glow bar resistance between 50-150 ohms cold. Thank You.
My ignitor goes on ok, but the burner goes on for ten seconds and off for ten seconds. What could cause this?
Answer Hello Abe,
Sounds like the ignitor WB13K21 is breaking down or the gas valve WB19K36 is failing. If there is rust in the burner WB16K10035, it could be the sole cause as this causes a change in the air flow which affects the gas burn.
I had a short on the ignitor at the connection. I changed the ignitor and still wont light. The oven works fine as also the top range.
Answer Hi Ed. Which igniter still does not work ? Forgive my confusion but you say the top is ok and the oven ? OK you had a shorted wire. Which inevitably shorts out the wire harness (stove top) part # WB18K6. You need to see if the wires at the top burner switch part # WB24K14 is shorted or the switch is open when it is supposed to be electrically closed transferring the voltage to the spark module part # WB13K25. You may have a shorted module output transformer. Use a volt/ohm meter part #@ TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics.It will be advantageous to find the supplied tech sheet inside the cabinet to aid you in the diagnosis. It allows you to follow the electrical wring circuit. Thank You.