I have received delivery of parts WR60X10063 and -062 and want to know if there is an installation video available on your web site?
Answer Hello Mike. Sorry, we do not have a video of this repair at this time. We are working daily at adding new videos to our site. Thanks.
My GE LSS25XSTB SS Side by side fridge has a weird problem.
It will work great, then it will act like it is going into defrost, but stay in defrost mode for a LONG time, like maybe for a day or two.
Then it will start working normally again. While it is in defrost mode, the top of the freezer gets warm, and the ice cubes and anything in the top 2/5ths of the freezer starts to melt.
Stuff that is lower seems to stay frozen OK.
But the real problem is that while it is in this mode, it freezes any veggies in the veggie trays.
We have lost a lot of salad, and spinach this way.
It's like it has decided the bottom half of each side is now a freezer, and the top half are melting.
After reading the other posts I have done some tests:
defrost heater (Part G7102 which might be WR51X10055) has a resistance of ~25 Ohms and looks like a burned out light bulb.
I tested the defrost limiting thermometer, WR50X10068 and it is continuous when cold.
I tried testing the thermister, but it read -57k ohms which didn't make sense,
but it was in circuit at the time, I can't see where I can detach one of it's leads to test it properly.
I think this might be a simple problem of a bad defrost heater,
but other people didn't seem to have the same symptoms so I wonder if there is another problem or possibly that there are two failed parts.
Other people with bad defrost heaters were reading many thousands of ohms. Could mine be bad at 25 ohms?
How do I measure the thermister resistance? what parts need to come off?
Would you test any other parts?
Answer Hello Jimbolina,
This is going to take a few parts. GE told me on the last few of these I serviced to be sure not to plug the unit in until all of the parts I am about to list are installed. As per their technical assistance line one part is causing the next part to fail and so on down the line. The parts needed will be the defrost thermostat WR50X10068, the defrost heater assembly WR51X10055 for the 12 inch single glass heater and WR51X10101 for the 9 inch double heater, the two thermistors in the freezer side WR55X10025 (evaporator thermistor and freezer compartment thermistor) which are the same part numbers so you will need to order two of these, and the main control board WR55X10942. Once all of the parts are replaced, the unit can be plugged in and hopefully you won't have another issue out of the unit this decade.
This damper broke, creating a knocking noise every time it tried to operate. Our plumber removed this part, thinking that would solve the problem, but now the freezer temperature and the temperature in the quick thaw drawer are not maintaining properly--freezer too warm, drawer too cold. Refrigerator temperature is fine. Is this damper essential to the proper temperature maintenance of the freezer and drawer?
Answer Little1one, Yes, the damper assembly can and usually does affect the cooling of a freezer, when it is "stuck" open or closed, especially in your style refrigerator, order and install the proper damper assembly, WR60X10063 or WR60X10062 ,depending on your version of fridge, and You'll be fine in a few hours. Good Luck and Thanks
How can I check damper to see if it is working?
Answer Hello Arun. The damper can be checked by turning off the unit and then turn the unit back on. It should cycle open and closed. If the unit is cycling, it is good. If not cycling, test for voltage to the damper WR60X10063. If voltage is there, replace the damper. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html