Hello, I'm French and I need your advice about a problem on my refrigerator. The fresh food side begin to be freeze in the low of section.
The damper opening when I increase temperature on thermostat of freezer and so on thermostat of fresh food section, but I don't understand why when the compressor is stopped and I increase thermostat of freezer, the damper begin opening when normally, it should to be closed.
Answer Hello Lionel,
Think of the unit like this: When the unit is sitting idle, since cold air is heavier than warm air, the cold air migrates to the bottom of the unit. The air return at the bottom behind the shelves in the fresh food section goes directly into the freezer section as an open return port. If the unit sits too long without the fans running, the cold air will "backflow" back into the bottom of the fresh food section, freezing everything in the drawers. For this reason, the controls seem to be backwards when correcting this issue. To correct the issue, the fresh food section has to be set Colder and the freezer side has to be set warmer. This corrects the issue by calling for temperature more often and kicking the fans on more often, stirring the air in the unit and preventing the coldest air from settling to the bottom. As far as the damper actuating, every time the electronic control sees a control setting change, it will activate the damper and, even though it makes no sense, the programming will work the damper door.
Freezer cold - refrig not. Not defrost problem. New motherboard, new thermistors, thermostat/heater checks out.
Damper isn't opening. When I open it manually, it cools - stays open for a while, then closes and does not appear to open again on its own. With door closed, refrig stays at 52-54 degrees. New thermistor - getting 9.975K ohms @ 54 degrees. At 32 degrees ice water), 15.4K ohms.
Also, the readout atop the door doesn't come on when the door is opened. Not even when the door switch is flipped. Does come on when you touch any of the "colder/warmer" controls. Any relation between the two issues.
Also, when I opened the damper door manually, started to get clicking/chirping from what appears to be fan compressor motor. I realize it is probably two entirely separate issues but is there any possible relation there? As of now, clicking/chirping is pretty constant without regard to damper door.
Answer Jim, Are you checking the resistances at the main control board ( white/ yellow, and blue/white wires) The refrigerator thermistor sends the signal to the main board, the main board sends the signal to the damper motor to make it run, until the switches open or close to stop the motor. You'll want to check the connections and wires to the damper assembly, and replace the damper WR09X10050, if all appears OK.
My GE gets freezed in the fresh food section, can I use both sections as freezer for good.? Will it make the refrigerator die soon?
Answer Hello Le Ngo
You may wnat to check to see if your damper door is broken which would cause this issue. It will not make the refrigerator die but it will continue to freeze until corrected.
The fresh food side is not cooling. The damper does not open and close as it should. It stays closed unless you unplug it.
Answer Hi Joe. The damper part # WR09X10050 gets its commands from the control board.The cavity thermistor part # WR55X10025 senses send the board the internal temperatures. It allows the board to send the command for the damper to open or to close when needed. Use a volt/ohm meter part # TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. They should ohm out to 10,000 ohms. First test these. If the thermistor reads more then +/- 5% tolerance, replace them. I would use the link http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/4220-ge-refrigerators-gs-ps-models-evaporator-fan-motor-test-replacement.html provided to explain the main control board part # WR55X10942 diagnosis. Let us know how to assist in the future. Thank You.