How do I take the top cooking surface off to access the cooking element?
Answer Hello Russ. Here are the instructions from the manufacture. Hope this helps.
1. Turn power off to unit.
2. Open oven door and remove screws securing maintop to oven chassis, located on the out side edges of the maintop.
3. Raise the front edge of the maintop and pull forward approximately 6-inches.
4. Disconnect wire terminal plugs from the maintop assembly.
5. Lift maintop assembly from the oven chassis.
6. Reverse procedure to reinstall maintop assembly.
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This element in my stove will only heat on the small ring. I tried replacing the element rocker switch with no luck. Is there anything else on this circuit I should look at before I try replacing the whole element?
Answer Hello Russ. You can test the element and see if it is good. If you go across the outer ring coil, it should read closed for continuity. If it is open, you will need to replace the element. Hope this helps.
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The dual size burner on my smooth top G.E. range doesn't heat on the small and large burner. The light to indicate the burner is in use still works.
Do you think it needs a new element?
Normally when both the inner and outer element are not working then the issue is not with the element. You can check to see if there are any burn marks on the element by using a flashlight to look down into the glass and see if you see any black marks on the element. If not then the infinite switch would be the most likely issue.
We cannot get the oven to go into timed bake. As soon as we set the temp. cook time, then press the time bake button we get an ERR. Any ideas?
Answer Hello Al. It depends on the error code you are getting. It could be voltage, stuck button, or bad board. Could also be oven sensor error. There should be a tech shhet on the unit to help you determine what is wrong.
?• Measure each sensor lead from connector block to ground. If shorted, look for pinched or cut wire in sensor circuit. • Check connector terminals - Look for deformed or corrosion on terminals. Repair or replace. • Check connector at sensor (remove sensor and carefully pull leads with connector into oven) • If all above is ok replace control. FAILURE MEANING CORRECTION CODE -F0--F1--F7-Stuck key pad or transistor failure. May mean relay is turned on. If code cannot be cancelled, replace control. -F2-Also see fan thermal switches Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation. •Control senses oven temperature • Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode). • Look for high resistance in the sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection inside sensor tube) or intermittent solder joint. • Electrical noise interference in the sensor circuit (Ham radio, cordless phone etc.). • Control senses oven temperature above 930°F with the door in the door locked mode. -F3--F4-Open sensor (circuit) (over 2700 ohms) Shorted sensor (circuit) (under 950 ohms) Could be result of contamination on terminals, pinched harness lead, or cold solder joint on control. • Disconnect power to range. • Disconnect sensor connector at control. Measure sensor resistance at control connector (take care not to damage terminals in block) - Should read 1100W at room ambient (approx. 72°F). -FC-Check wiring and test operation of switches. Perform resistance check. Problem with door lock circuit such as pinched wires between control and door lock switches. -FF-Door motor safety switch transistor failure Replace control. -F5-Loss of relay drive circuit • Press Clear/Off and reprogram control. If -F5- code reappears, replace control. • Check sensor circuit. • Check lock circuit. If all above check OK the F5 code can be a result of a momentary loss of power (DO NOT REPLACE CONTROL AND LOCK.) Check lock circuit. above 630°F withthe door circuit in the unlock mode. NOTE:Connections can be intermittent due to a corrosive buildup between the connection to the terminals, or by being bent by the insertion of a probe, etc.
I replaced the dual burner and now I don't remember how the wires go. Can you please help me?
Answer Hello Bill,
Blue with a black trace goes to terminal 4 and has a jumper to terminal S. Blue with a white trace goes to terminal 4a. Black to terminal H. Solid blue to terminal 2.
My flat-surface cooktop has one burner that is 2-in-1, that is, it has a small central burner element and a larger surrounding ring. The control is a rotary knob that controls the small (center) burner on the left half and the large (both burners) on the right. When I turn on the large burner, the small burner comes on but the outer may or may not, and it is not consistent. Also, when the small burner is turned on, the large burner may or may not come on, too. Again, it is not consistent. What do these symptoms point to? Burner element or control? THANKS!
Answer Hello Mike, there are possibilities of the infinite control switch WB24T10063 or the element WB30T10044 but in this case, sounds like it's more likely the switch. Thanks!