How can I test the water level switch? Tub over fill and drains out.
Answer Hello Bill! If you disconnect power to the washer does it continue to fill? If so, you will need to replace the water valve WH13X10027. If it shuts off, make sure that the water pressure hose is not clogged. If it is not, replace the water pressure switch WH12X10069. Hope this helps!
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Washer load became unbalanced and made loud noise during spin cycle. Shut off and rebalanced load. Spin cycle started but stopped after 5-7 seconds. Removed all clothes and the same thing happened. Washer will spin fine on fine cycle by itself, but stops on spin cycle after 5-7 seconds on regular wash cycle.
Answer Hi. Jump together the lid switch part # WH12X10141 to see if it is bad. The lid switch magnet is part WH12X10276. If the water is left in the basket then the pressure switch will not allow the unit to spin. Make sure the pump is clear and it drains well. If so then jumper the pressure switch wires together to "trick" the board into thinking the water is out and it can advance into a spin. Look at the lid top to see if it is concave as if there was a basket of clothes set on top of it? If so it off sets the lid switch so it does not align correctly with the magnet. Use the bottom of your butted-fist to pop the underside of the top back up. When the tub is spinning on the normal cycle doe it tilt to one side? If so then the tub supports front part # WH16X543 (1-ea.) and the back part # is WH16X544 (1ea.). With the clothes out does it final a spin cycle as if the timer is OK. We have to decide if this is a electrical issue stopping or a mechanical one. Remove the agitator to see if the Agitator drive bell part # WH49X10042 is damaged. Reach in and see if the inner basket tub nut part # WH2X1193 under the agitator is loose throwing the inner basket off balance. Inspect the motor part # WH20X10019 and remove the belt part # WH1X2026 to see if Motor alone will finish the cycle and the motor itself is OK and not overheating. Find the wiring diagram to see if it explains the field diagnostic chart. You may have a control board that is bad. Thank You.
We took apart our leaky washing machine to discover a cracked flood hose. Our machine was leaking only in the super load capacity and never in the small and medium. Does the crack in the hose cause a flood or another existing problem? We noticed our tub not clipped in the proper way and reinsterted all clips. Crossing our fingers we can fix whatever the problem is!
Answer Katie, If the tub cover had come loose, or dislodged, that would explain the leak on the"super load" setting. Apparently, you had a heavy off balanced load, or the washer got jumbled in a move. You will need to replace the cracked "flood hose" eventually, there is still a possibility of a leak from it, due to the crack, but no it won't flood, basically it re directs water back into the tub, in the event of a slow drain, or slight overfill situation. Thanks
Our machine sounded like it was a freight train and going to take off so we took it apart and replaced the bearing. We got it back together and ran a test load. The agitator doesn't agitate, tub only spins and water is pouring out the flood hose tube. What do we do now?
Answer Hi D.E. There is a upper outer tub seal that the flood hose goes into. This is part # WH1X2729. It will crack get hardened and leak. Carefully look everything over again with all connections and proper hose routing. You do not want electric cords or the hoses slapping against the cabinet and tub or base. Use all clips provided to help this. Tighten -up so to speak on your way out of the machine. Thank You.