Originally I had 120v to ignitor, replaced ignitor because it fell out in pieces. Dryer still didn't heat, blower motor and drum motor operating. In the process of checking to see whether the ignitor was glowing or not, I shorted out a terminal on the flame detector. I removed the flame detector and it is obviously cooked. I put it all back together and started the diagnosis over again. I no longer have 120v to ignitor (18v). I checked the continuity of the coils, 2 prong (1250), 3 prong, between 1&2 (infinite), 1&3 (560). At the very least it would seem I have to replace a coil and the flame detector, and with all the dicking around some pieces fell off the new ignitor, although it may be OK, I don't know. I can't read the resistance values for the t-stats and limit controls on the wiring diagram to check to see if I fried any of them. Is repairing this machine cost effective? Or should I trash it? The only reason I'm trying to repair this machine is because I want to. Thanks, I hope you're laughing, but it's true.
Answer Brian, Sounds like you had a bad go at it. Based on your post, you'll need to replace: the coils 279834 (replace both) the igniter WE4X444 and the heat detector WE4X448, they all seem to be damaged. Be extremely carefull with the igniter, you may want to consider removing the gas valve assembly. As for your thermostats and fuses, they should all be closed circuits at room temperature. Make sure you unplug the power cord, and remove the wires from the component when you test the circuit, so you don't get a false reading. It's probably worth the repair, when you consider the experience you've gained. You could always donate it to a worthy cause, when you're done. Good Luck
1 person found this answer helpful.
How do I check the coils?
Answer Hello. You can test the coils 279834 using a multi-meter. TJMA-DM1 The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Hope this helps.
1 person found this answer helpful.
How does the igniter work. It seems to just slide into its bracket and no wires are attached directly to it.
The ignitor should have 2 wires attached to it. It is mounted to the side of the burner via the bracket. The ignitor glows almost white hot and then the gas valve opens and the burner fires.
the wires to the flame sensor came off. there is a double female connector with red & white wires and a single black. where do they belong on the flame sensor terminals?
The Red and white wires from the valve assembly will be attached to the same terminal on the heat sensor. The black wire from the timer will attach to the left over terminal by itself. This component is not polarity sensitive, and is a single pole, single throw switch, so which terminal you attach them to is of no importance.
Dryer stopped heating. No glowing or nothing. What do u think?
Answer Hello Scott,
You will want to check the ignitor for continuity or amps. If no continuity then the ignitor is bad. If you do an amp draw you should get between 3.2 to 3.6 ohms. If you do not then you will have to replace the ignitor. If does then you would want to check the flame sensor for continuity if the flame sensor shows continuity then it is faulty and would need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
I have replaced the ignitor but in the process disconnected the heat sensor. There a 3 wires white black and red. There is a double auto female clip where 2 wires go on one terminal of the sensor. Which two go together? The black and white come out of the valve assembly the red is is coming from a wiring harness.
Answer Ron, The black and white wires from the valve assembly will be attached to the same terminal on the heat sensor. The red wire from the timer will attach to the left over terminal by itself. This component is not polarity sensitive, and is a single pole, single throw switch, so which terminal you attach them to is of no importance.