I am beginning to lose heat - needing to dry clothes longer. Is my problem with the heating element?
Answer Hello Pauline. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.
myGE dryer run but not heat at all,i check the voltage at terminal block ,it had 240v from l1 to l2 and neutral line 120v. the thermostats have continuity ,the heating element have continuity not grounded,when i turn the selector switch at cotton reg. heat,i put one probe at the red wire connect to safety left thermostat and another probe at the blue or white wire connect to the biased control inlet(another end connect to the heating element) it had 64v ,and switch to easy care med.heat,it had 119v,and switch to delicates low heat ,it had 119v ,and fluff no heat,it had 0.9v ,i checked while switching the timer dry on ,at the drum outlet thermostat attached to the blower with the red wire plug in ,i put the probe at the another end of this drum outlet and one probe at the end wire unplug of heating element it had 119v,but when i connect the white wire to the another end of drum outlet ,it had 0.9v and the same low voltage at both end of the heating element.I can not locate the motor switch,to check for the continuity and voltage.I want to order the part but i'm not sure which one need to.Please help me out the problem,thank you very much.
Answer Mike, You're mixing up your circuits, try this. Raise the dryer top, remove the front panel, drum and belt, "bypass" the door switch, so the dryer will run. This will be a live voltage test, so you need to be extremely carefule. Set your temp. selector switch to KNITS, disconnect the purple wire (L2 common 120 VAC) from the heater elements. Reapply power to the dryer, and start it. Check for 120 VAC from the empty terminal to chassis ground, If you have the voltage, your terminal block, timer, temp. switch and thermostats are all ok and carrying the voltage to and through the elements( L1 power leg is OK).If no voltage is present, you'll need to check each wire and component back to the timer and terminal block, until you find 120 VAC. The L2 power leg, isn't quite as hard a circuit, you'll need to check the purple wire from the element to the M2 terminal on the motor switch, WE17X10010, then the M1 terminal black wire to the terminal block. You should be able to find the issue in a relatively short time, Thanks
The dryer does not dry the clothes all the way. They come out damp. We set the cycle to the desired setting "Cottons - More dry" and it will run and shut off but
the clothes are still a little damp? What gives?
Answer Hello Robert. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.
Dryer runs but wont heat. I assume the element is bad. If I order AP2620171, must I remove the drum to get to the element or can I get to the heating element assembly from the back? Just looking for the easiest may to install the element.
Answer Hello Roy. Yes, you will need to remove the drum to replace the heater if it is bad. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter TJMA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html
Only one of my heating coils heats up. When I switch the power connector wire the one that wasn't working heats up and the one that was working doesn't. All thermostats have continuity. It appears that the grey wire from the control panel to the inner heat coil is the culprit. Please advise. Thanks - John
Answer John, You'll need to be careful and run a "live " voltage test at the control board. Disconnect the gray wire from terminal #10 on the control board, Start the dryer on any heat cycle and temperature. Take the meter probe and touch one probe on the #10 terminal and the other probe to chassis ground. You should have a reading of 110-120 VAC , if the"inner coil" relay is closing and operating properly. If there's No voltage, check the black wire on terminal #9, for 110-120 VAC to chassis ground, if there's no voltage, the black jumper wire is broken from the "J" terminal to the #9 terminal on the control board.If there's voltage on terminal #10 Then the gray wire is broken and will need to be repaired or replaced. If there's no voltage on terminal #10, but you have voltage on terminal #9, the relay has failed and you'll need to replace the control board WE4M296 . Good Luck and Thanks
Can just the heating element be purchased?
Answer Dickran, the heater element kit used on your model is part number WE11X10007. Thanks!