The igniter (AP3191250) doesn't come with the cable. So where to get the replacement cable ( from the igniter to switch)?
The manufacturer does not offer any wiring for this unit aside from the switch harness but that is not what you are needing
Right rear igniter is weak, with all burner caps off and a screwdriver held close. If no screw driver held near the right front will spark, right front seems to do this when any burner is trying to ignite without burner heads . All was working fine until she cleaned the area with soft scrub. Tried removing the burner screws and got things loose but not able to remove burner or igniter. Spark seemed stronger after putting screws back but not strong enough, bad ground at that one burner? Cracked igniter? Thanks
Answer Hello Paul,
All ignitors are designed to spark any time any of the surface burners are started. This is normal operation. It sounds like you are losing ground to the surface burner section of the top. The ground is completed where the screws connect the metal sections together. Corrosion forms between the sections and spills and cleaners cause the ground to be affected. This is many times corrected by removing the screws and sanding the area around where the screw connects the two pieces of metal. If you want to prove this to yourself first, you can use a piece of wire connected to a screw near the base of the stove where it is clean and shiny and connect the other end of the wire to a screw near the ignitor. It is possible that an ignitor is cracked or an ignitor wire could be failing.
After replacing with a brand new spark switch assembly, only two of the igniter are sparking (they were all working prior to parts replacement). Does igniter need to be grounded or some sort ? Can i also switch around igniter connection from the spark module for testing purposes ? What am i missing ? buy new igniter or spark module ? Help
Answer Troy, No, the igniters don't need to be grounded, but the area and the burner have to be clean of all debris and spillover residue as well for the burner bases and caps. Yes you can switch the igniter wires for testing purposes( just label them first, and return them to their original position). The chances are very high that you will need the spark module once you've done your testing.
I have 4 burners. When any of them are turned on, I can here sparking but none of them light. What part needs replacing?
Answer Hello Patricia,
Certain models of the cooktop are equipped with a gas shut-off valve. This valve may be turned to the off position by rotating the shut-off
valve knob, mounted in the control panel of the maintop. This shut-off valve is NOT meant to replace the main cooktop shut-off valve
mounted downstream of the gas regulator. This has been accidentally turned off during cleaning. If this is not the case, make sure the main shutoff has not been turned off. If these check out you should make sure you can see a spark at the ignitor. The spark module will still click regardless of where the spark is being discharged. If the ignitor wires are losing th4e high tension voltage, the sparks may be under the main top away from the gas. Otherwise, the burners should be thoroughly cleaned with an old tooth brush and hot white vinegar to insure the proper gas flow to the burner lite area.
My GE left rear burner sparks when I switched it on, but it is very weak and can not ignite. All other burners are working ok. I pulled the weak igniter out and noticed the connection between the white porcelain to the red wire is not solid (seems like aging due to heat). I bought the igniter AP3191250 and found out it does not come with a wire. What part should I order to get the wire. Please help. Thanks.
Answer Hello John,
I looked up the model you listed on GEs' website and found that GE does not list the ignitor wires individually or as a harness. I did a search for four burner ignitor wires and pulled your mini manual and found that your model has a blue, brown, yellow, and orange wire and of all of the ignitor wires harnesses made by GE, the WB18T10407 is the closest. This is not to say that this is the correct one for your model but is the best guess we can provide. If the wire lengths are not the same, you may have to replace only the bad wire and you may have to use a different color wire from the harness to do this. The spark will not know the difference and because of the fact that they carry high tension voltage, they have to be completed by the factory.
This is a ceramic cooktop. Do I have to disassemble ceramic top to replace igniter?
To replace the igniter you would remove the burner cap the burner head and the burner base and the igniter should come out with the base. Make sure that you unplug unit before doing this.
Does this ignitor package include cable?
Answer Hello Tao! No, the igniter WB13T10010 does not include the wiring. We'll need the model number to your appliance to verify if the manufacturer offers the wiring for your unit. Thanks.
Our stove was not igniting so we asked and were told to replace the spark module. I've replaced that but still get no clicking except in the back left burner. Should I be replacing the igniters or have I installed the spark module incorrectly?
You will want to check the ignition switches and wiring from the switches to the spark module. To check the switches you will want to turn off the gas to the unit. Using a continuity tester you will turn on the switch and should have continuity across the leads. If not then the switch is bad and would need to be replaced.